E 

160 
U589 


DEPARTMENT  OF  THE  INTERIOR 

FRANKLIN  K.  LANE.  SECRETARY 

NATIONAL  PARK  SERVICEj 

STEPHEN  T.  MATHER.  DIRECTOR 


GENERAL  INFORMATION 

I 
REGARDING 

THE  NATIONAL  MONUMENTS 


SET  ASIDE  UNDER  THE  ACT 

OF  CONGRESS  APPROVED 

JUNE  8,  1906 

X 


WASHINGTON 

GOVERNMENT  PRINTING  OFFICE 
1917 


F/60 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


Page, 

ntroduction - 5 

Distinctions  between  national  monuments  and  national  parks 

List  of  monuments 6 

Distribution  by  States 7 

Kinds  of  monuments 7 

Names  of  monuments 

Regulations 9 

Permits  for  archaeological  exploration 9 

Appropriations 9 

National  monuments  administered  by  the  Interior  Department 10 

Capulin  Mountain  National  Monument 10 

Chaco  Canyon  National  Monument 11 

Colorado  National  Monument 12 

Devils  Tower  National  Monument 13 

Dinosaur  National  Monument 15 

El  Morro  National  Monument 17 

Gran  Quivira  National  Monument 19 

Lewis  and  Clark  Cavern  National  Monument 22 

Montezuma  Castle  National  Monument 24 

Muir  Woods  National  Monument 27 

Mukuntuweap  National  Monument 28 

Natural  Bridges  National  Monument 31 

Navajo  National  Monument 33 

Papago  Saguaro  National  Monument 36 

Petrified  Forest  National  Monument 38 

Pinnacles  National  Monument 42 

Rainbow  Bridge  National  Monument 43 

Sieur  de  Monts  National  Monument 44 

Sitka  National  Monument 45 

Shoshone  Cavern  National  Monument 47 

Tumacacori  National  Monument 48 

National  monuments  administered  by  the  Department  of  Agriculture 51 

Bandelier  National  Monument 51 

Devil  Postpile  National  Monument 52 

Gila  Cliff  Dwellings  National  Monument 53 

Grand  Canyon  National  Monument 55 

Jewel  Cave  National  Monument 57 

Mount  Olympus  National  Monument 58 

Old  Kasaan  National  Monument 61 

Oregon  Caves  National  Monument 63 

Ton  to  National  Monument 64 

Walnut  Canyon  National  Monument 66 

Wheeler  National  Monument 67 

National  monuments  administered  by  the  War  Department 69 

Big  Hole  Battle  Field  National  Monument 69 

Cabrillo  National  Monument 70 

Map 40 

Appendix  I.  Some  important  dates  in  the  history  of  national  monuments 71 

Appendix  II.  An  act  for  the  preservation  of  American  antiquities 72 

Appendix  III .  An  act  to  establish  a  national  park  service,  and  for  other  purposes.  73 

Appendix  IV.  Literature 75 

(3) 


346 


GENERAL  INFORMATION   REGARDING  NATIONAL 

MONUMENTS.1 


INTRODUCTION. 

The  act  of  Congress  approved  June  8,  1906,  entitled  "An  act  for 
the  preservation  of  American  antiquities"  2  authorized  the  President 
of  the  United  States  "in  his  discretion,  to  declare  by  public  procla 
mation  historic  landmarks,  historic  and  prehistoric  structures,  and 
other  objects  of  historic  or  scientific  interest  that  are  situated  upon 
the  lands  owned  or  controlled  by  the  Government  of  the  United 
States  to  be  national  monuments."  Under  such  authority  the 
President  has  created  36  monuments  between  date  of  this  act  and 
April  1,  1917.  Twenty-one  of  these  are  administered  by  the  Interior 
Department,  11  by  the  Department  of  Agriculture,  and  2  by  the 
War  Department;  while  2,  the  Cinder  Cone  and  the  Lassen  Peak,  have 
been  absorbed  into  the  Lassen  Volcanic  National  Park. 

The  lands  embraced  within  the  national  monuments  were  taken 
from  the  public  domain,  with  exception  of  the  Muir  Woods  and  the 
Sieur  de  Monts,  in  which  cases  donation  was  made  to  the  United 
States  by  the  owners;  and  the  Lewis  and  Clark  Cavern,  which  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railway  Co.  quitclaimed  in  favor  of  the  United 
States,  under  condition  that  the  premises  should  immediately  revert 
to  the  grantor  should  the  monument  be  no  longer  maintained. 

DISTINCTIONS  BETWEEN  NATIONAL  MONUMENTS  AND  NATIONAL 

PARKS. 

National  monuments  differ  from  national  parks  in  several  respects, 
particularly  with  regard  to  method  of  creation,  but  it  would  be  diffi 
cult  to  define  one  generally  in  terms  that  would  exclude  the  other. 
It  has  been  the  endeavor  of  the  Interior  Department  to  administer 
those  monuments  under  its  control  along  the  lines  of  national-park 
protection  and  development,  though  effort  in  the  past  has  been 
restricted  by  lack  of  Federal  appropriation  to  meet  the  necessary 
expense.  Fortunately  many  of  the  objects  in  the  monuments  are  of 
such  character  as  to  withstand  any  effort  to  damage  or  destroy. 

Each  national  park  has  been  created  by  special  act  or  provision  of 
Congress,  and  contains  scenery  or  natural  wonders  of  the  highest 
order  as  exemplified  by  the  Glacier,  Yellowstone,  or  Yosemite 
National  Parks,  while  the  national  monuments  are  created  (and  their 
boundaries  modified  when  necessary)  by  proclamations  of  the  Presi 
dent  under  authority  of  the  act  for  the  preservation  of  American 

1  The  information  in  this  compilation  is  current  as  of  April  1,  1917. 

2  Text  of  this  act  is  given  on  p.  72. 

(5) 


antiquities,  and  the  objects  preserved  thereby  must  possess  some 
special  historical  or  scientific  value.  This  does  not  exclude  scenic 
areas  from  national  monuments  (as,  for  example,  the  canyons  in  the 
Mukuntuweap  or  Grand  Canyon  National  Monuments),  but  the  under 
lying  idea  in  creation  of  a  national  monument  is  a  special  object,  and 
its  scenic  value  is  subordinate  to  its  scientific  value. 


LIST  OF  MONUMENTS. 

The  34  monuments  now  in  existence  are  administered  by  three 
executive  departments,  as  shown  by  the  following  tables.  The 
sequence  follows  the  order  of  creation  and  if  more  than  one  procla 
mation  has  been  issued  the  dates  of  all  the  proclamations  are  given. 

National  monuments. 

ADMINISTERED  BY  THE  DEPARTMENT  OF  THE  INTERIOR. 


Name. 

State. 

Date. 

Proclamation. 

Area. 

Devils  Tower  

Wyoming  

Sept.  24,1906 

34Stat.,3236... 

Acres. 
1,152.00 

El  Morro  

New  Mexico  

Dec.     8,  1906 

34Stat.,3264 

160.  (X) 

Montezuma  Castle 

Arizona 

do 

34  Stat.,3265 

160  00 

Petrified  Forest 

do 

/Dec.     8,  1906 

34Stat.,32C6  

1  25  695  (0 

Chaco  Canyon 

New  Mexico 

\July  31.1911 
Mar    11  1907 

37  Stat.,1716  

35  Stat.,2119 

1  20  629  00 

Muir  Woods  2  

California.. 

Jan.      9,  1908 

35  Stat.,2174  .. 

29").  00 

Pinnacles       

.  ..do.      . 

Jan.    16,  1908 

35  Stat.,2177 

2  091  21 

Apr.   16,  1908 

35  Stat.,2183  

120.00 

Natural  Bridges  

Utah  

Sept.  25,1909 

36Stat.,2502  .            .   . 

1  2,  740  00 

Feb    11,1916 

39  Stat.,  Proc.  44 

i  2  740  (X) 

Lewis  and  Clark  Cavern  - 

Montana 

May   11,1908 

35  Stat.  ,2187  

160.  00 

Tunaacacori 

Arizona 

May  16,1911 
Sept.  15  1908 

37  Stat.  ,1679  
35  Stat  ,  2205 

1(50.  00 
10  (X) 

Nava'o  

do  

/Mar.  20,1909 

36  Stat.  ,2491  

i  600.  (X) 

Mukuntuweap 

Utah 

\Mar.  14,  1912 
July  31  1909 

37  Stat.,  1733  

36  Stat    2498 

360.  00 
i  15  S40  (X) 

Shoshone  Cavern  
Gran  Quivira  

Wyoming  
New  Mexico 

Sept.  21,  1909 
Nov.     1  1909 

36  Stat.,  2501... 
36  Stat.,  2503 

210.  00 
1  160  00 

Sitka 

Alaska 

Mar    23  1910 

36  Stat    2601 

i  57  (X) 

Rainbow  Bridge  

Utah  

May  30,1910 

36  Stat.,  2703 

160.  00 

Colorado             .  .  . 

Colorado 

May  24  1911 

37  Stat  ,  1681 

13  883  (Xi 

Papago  Saguaro 

Arizona 

Jan     31  1914 

38  Stat    ]  l)91 

2  050  43 

Dinosaur  

Utah  .... 

Oct.      4,  1915 

39  Stat.,  Proc.  32 

80.  00 

Sieur  de  Monts  2 

Maine 

July     8  1916 

39  Stat     Proc  65 

5  000  (X) 

Capulin  Mountain  

New  Mexico  

Aug.     9,  1916 

39  Stat.,  Proc.  72  ... 

680.  37 

1  Estimated  area.  2  Donated  to  the  United  States. 

ADMINISTERED  BY  THE  DEPARTMENT  OF  AGRICULTURE. 


Gila  Cliff  Dwellings  ... 

New  Mexico.... 

.    Nov.  16,1907 

35  Stat.  2162 

...i           160.00 

Tonto  

Ari/ona  

.    Dec.   19,1907 

35  Stat.  2168  

J640.(X) 

Grand  Canyon 

do 

'  Jan     11  190S 

35  Stat  2175 

1S06  400  (X) 

Jewel  Cave 

South  Dakota 

:  Feb      7  1908 

35  Stat  2180 

i  i  280  (X) 

Wheeler  

Colorado 

•  Dec.     7.1908 

35  Stat.  2214 

300  00 

IMar      2,1909 

35  Stat  2247 

608,640  00 

Mount  Olympus 

Washington 

\pr    17  1912 

37  stat  1737 

60S  480  00 

May   11,1915 

39  Stat.  Proc.  6.. 

299,370.00 

Oregon  Caves 

Oregon 

July   12  1909 

36  Stat.  2497 

480  00 

Devil  Postpilr1 

California 

July     6  1911 

37  Stat  1715 

800  00 

Walnut  Canyon  
Bandelier.  . 

Arizona  
New  Mexico 

.    Nov.  30,1915 
Feb.  11,1916 

39  Stat.  Proc.  41.... 
39  Stat.  Proc.  44 

960.  (X) 
22,075  (X) 

Old  Kasaan 

Alaska 

1  Oct     25  1916 

38  30 

i  Estimated  area. 
ADMINISTERED  BY  THE  WAR  DEPARTMENT. 


Big  Hole  Battle  Field  »  ., 

Montana 

June  23  1910 

5 

Cabrillo 

Oct     14  1913 

38  Stat  1%5 

1 

i  Set  aside  by  Executive  order. 


DISTRIBUTION  BY  STATES. 


With  exception  of  the  Sieur  de  Monts  National  Monument,  in 
Maine,  and  the  Sitka  and  Old  Kasaan  National  Monuments  in  Alaska, 
the  national  monuments  are  located  in  the  Rocky  Mountain  and 
Pacific  States. 

The  following  list  shows  the  monuments  in  each  State : 


Alaska  (2): 

Old  Kasaan. 

Sitka. 
Arizona  (8): 

Grand  Canyon. 

Monte zuma  Castle. 

Navajo. 

Papago  Saguaro. 

Petrified  Forest. 

Tonto. 

Tumacacori. 

Walnut  Canyon. 
California  (4): 

Cabrillo. 

Devil  Postpile. 

Muir  Woods. 

Pinnacles. 
Colorado  (2): 

Colorado. 

Wheeler. 
Maine:  Sieur  de  Monts. 


Montana  (2): 

Big  Hole  Battle  Field. 

Lewis  and  Clark  Cavern. 
New  Mexico  (6): 

Bandelier. 

Capulin  Mountain. 

Chaco  Canyon. 

El  Morro. 

Gila  Cliff  Dwellings. 

Gran  Quivira. 
Oregon:  Oregon  Caves. 
South  Dakota:  Jewel  Cave. 
Utah  (4): 

Dinosaur. 

Mukuntuweap . 

Natural  Bridges. 

Rainbow  Bridge. 
Washington:  Mount  Olympus. 
Wyoming  (2): 

Devils  Tower. 

Shoshone  Cavern. 


KINDS  OF  MONUMENTS. 


The  National  Monuments  Act  contemplates  the  creation  of  three 
distinct  kinds  of  monuments:  (1)  Historic  landmarks  or  places  of 
historic  interest  such  as  the  Big  Hole  Battle  Field,  or  the  spot  on 
Point  Loma  which  marks  the  place  where  Cabrillo  first  sighted  the 
coast  of  southern  California;  (2)  historic  monuments,  comprising 
prehistoric  structures  such  as  Montezuma  Castle,  Gila  Cliff  Dwellings, 
or  historic  buildings  of  which  the  Hydah  Village  at  Old  Kasaan  is  an 
illustration;  and  (3)  natural  monuments,  comprising  a  variety  of 
objects  of  scientific  interest  such  as  caves,  natural  bridges,  Muir 
Woods,  and  the  Grand  Canyon. 

The  term  "natural  monument"  was  used  nearly  a  century  ago  by 
the  celebrated  traveler,  Alexander  von  Humboldt,  who  in  describing 
certain  trees  met  with  during  his  travels  in  the  Tropics  referred  to 
them  as  "monuments  de  la  nature."  The  term  is  now  applied, 
abroad  at  least,  to  any  natural  object  which  might  properly  be 
regarded  as  a  monument  of  nature's  handiwork,  whether  it  be  a 
glaciated  bowlder,  a  grove  of  trees,  a  swamp  containing  rare  plants,  a 
breeding  colony  of  birds,  or  a  landscape  remarkable  for  its  erosion  or 
glaciation.  In  Prussia  steps  have  been  taken  for  the  systematic 
preservation  of  natural  monuments  (Naturdenkmalpflege),  including 
objects  which  have  either  scientific  or  historic  interest,  and  in  1906  a 
special  officer  known  as  the  State  commissioner  for  the  care  of 
natural  monuments  was  appointed  under  the  minister  of  education 
to  supervise  the  work  of  monument  preservation.  It  is  interesting 
to  note  that  this  action  was  taken  in  the  same  year  in  which  the 
national  monuments  act  was  passed  by  Congress.  The  monuments 
under  the  central  of  the  Prussian  bureau  may  or  may  not  belong  to 


8 

the  State.  They  may  be  the  property  of  municipalities  or  of  indi 
viduals,  but  they  are  cared  for  by  the  Government.  The  duties  of  the 
commissioner  consist  primarily  in  locating  and  marking  the  monu 
ments  and  in  organizing  and  securing  the  cooperation  of  individuals 
and  local  authorities  in  their  preservation.1 

In  the  following  list  the  34  monuments  are  distributed  under  the 
three  headings  above  mentioned: 


HISTORIC    LANDMARKS. 


Sitka. 

Big  Hole  Battle  Field. 

Cabrillo. 

El  Morro. 

(Sieur  de  Monts.) 

(Devils  Tower.) 


HISTORIC   MONUMENTS. 


Bandelier. 
Chaco  Canyon. 
Gila  Cliff  Dwellings. 
Gran  Quivira. 
Montezuma  Castle. 
Navajo. 
Old  Kaaaan. 
Tonto. 
Tumacacori. 
Walnut  Canyon. 


NATURAL    MONUMENTS. 


Capulin  Mountain. 
Colorado. 
Devil  Postpile. 
Devils  Tower. 
Dinosaur. 
Grand  Canyon. 
Jewel  Cave. 

Lewis  and  Clark  Cavern. 
Mount  Olympus. 
Muir  Woods. 
Mukuntuweap. 
Natural  Bridges. 
Oregon  Caves. 
Papago  Saguaro. 
Petrified  Forest. 
Pinnacles. 
Rainbow  Bridge. 
Shoshone  Cavern. 
Sieur  de  Monts. 
Wheeler. 

NAMES  OF  THE  MONUMENTS. 


The  designations  of  the  monuments,  some  of  which  at  first  sight 
appear  formidable  and  difficult  to  pronounce,  will  be  found  on  closer 
examination  to  be  both  interesting  and  appropriate.  Most  of  the 
names  refer  either  to  the  character  of  the  monument  or  its  geo 
graphical  location.  Gila  Cliff  Dwellings,  Grand  Canyon,  Jewel  Cave, 
Natural  Bridges,  Pinnacles,  and  Petrified  Forest  suggest  at  once  the 
character  of  the  reservations,  while  Colorado,  Sitka,  Mount  Olympus, 
and  Oregon  Caves  indicate  their  location.  El  Morro  (the  castle)  if 
mentioned  by  its  local  descriptive  name  '' Inscription  Rock/'  is  at 
once  divested  of  its  unfamiliar  form,  and  the  designation  Dinosaur 
becomes  plain  to  anyone  who  has  seen  specimens  or  read  descriptions 
of  the  wonderful  extinct  reptiles  whose  remains  are  here  found  in 
such  numbers. 

Finally,  there  are  a  few  names  of  eminent  explorers  whose  memory 
has  been  perpetuated  by  association  with  the  monuments.  On  the 
Pacific  coast,  Cabrillo,  discoverer  of  California,  is  commemorated  by  a 
monument  located  on  the  point  which  he  first  sighted  when  approach 
ing  the  harbor  of  San  Diego.  On  the  Atlantic  coast  the  name  of 
Sieur  de  Monts,  patron  of  Champlain  and  commander  of  the  expedi 
tion  which  discovered  Mount  Desert  Island  on  the  Maine  coast,  has 
been  associated  with  the  reservation  on  'this  islan(l.  A  cavern  in 
Montana,  situated  not  far  from  the  route  followed  by  Lewis  and 
Clark,  bears  their  names,  thus  recalling  the  first  exploring  expedition 

1  For  full  account  of  this  work  and  similar  work  in  Denmark  and  Franco  see  Conwentx,  H.,  care  of  Natural 
Monuments,  Cambridge,  1909,  and  the  publications  of  the  Prussian  bureau,  1906-1916. 


across  the  continent;  and  the  Wheeler  monument  in  Colorado,  a 
striking  geological  feature  discovered  during  the  survey  under  the 
direction  of  the  late  George  M.  Wheeler  of  the  Corps  of  Engineers, 
likewise  bears  his  name.  A  monument  containing  some  of  the 
prehistoric  rums  explored  by  Bandelier  commemorates  the  work  of 
this  eminent  archaBologist,  and  John  Muir,  explorer  and  naturalist, 
could  have  no  more  fitting  monument  then  the  grove  of  noble  redwood 
trees  now  known  as  Muir  Woods. 

REGULATIONS. 

The  following  regulations  for  the  protection  of  the  national  monu 
ments  were  promulgated  by  the  department  on  November  19,  1910, 
to  be  applicable  generally.  Previously  (September  10,  1908)  these 
regulations  had  been  prescribed  for  the  government  and  protection 
of  the  Muir  Woods  National  Monument. 

1.  Fires  are  absolutely  prohibited. 

2.  No  firearms  are  allowed. 

3.  No  fishing  permitted. 

4.  Flowers,  ferns,  or  shrubs  must  not  be  picked,  nor  may  any 
damage  be  done  to  the  trees. 

5.  Vehicles  and  horses  may  be  left  only  at  the  places  designated 
for  this  purpose. 

6.  Lunches  may  be  eaten  only  at  the  spots  marked  out  for  such 
use,  and  all  refuse  and  litter  must  be  placed  in  the  receptacles  pro 
vided. 

7.  Pollution  of  the  water  in  any  manner  is  prohibited;  it  must  be 
kept  clean  enough  for  drinking  purposes. 

8.  No  drinking  saloon  or  barroom  will  be  permitted. 

9.  Persons  rendering  themselves  obnoxious  by  disorderly  conduct 
or  bad  behavior,  or  who  may  violate  any  of  the  foregoing  rules,  will 
be  summarily  removed. 

PERMITS  FOR  ARCHAEOLOGICAL  EXPLORATION. 

The  uniform  rules  and  regulations  promulgated  by  the  Secretaries 
of  the  Interior,  Agriculture,  and  War,  under  date  of  December  28, 
1906,  to  carry  into  effect  the  general  provisions  of  the  act  for  the 
preservation  of  American  antiquities,  provide  (par.  3)  that — 

Permits  for  the  excavation  of  ruins,  the  excavation  of  archaeological  sites,  and 
the  gathering  of  objects  of  antiquity  will  be  granted,  by  the  respective  secretaries 
having  jurisdiction,  to  reputable  museums,  universities,  colleges,  or  other  recognized 
scientific  or  educational  institutions,  or  to  their  duly  authorized  agents. 

APPROPRIATIONS. 

The-first  general  appropriation  for  protection  of  the  national  monu 
ments  was  contained  in  the  sundry  civil  act  approved  July  1,  1916, 
and  is  in  amount  $3,500.  The  Indian  appropriation  act  approved 
May  18,  1916,  carried  $3,000  for  the  improvement  of  the  Navajo 
National  Monument  and  the  general  deficiency  act  approved  Sep 
tember  8,  1916,  provided  $15,000  for  road  construction  in  the 
Mukuntuweap  National  Monument. 
84490°— 17 2 


10 

NATIONAL  MONUMENTS  ADMINISTERED  BY  THE  INTERIOR 

DEPARTMENT. 

CAPULIN  MOUNTAIN  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

This  monument,  located  in  Union  County,  northeastern  New 
Mexico,  was  created  August  9,  1916,  and  embraces  680.37  acres 
immediately  surrounding  Capulin  Mountain,  which  is  regarded  as 
the  most  perfect  extinct  volcano  in  North  America.  It  is  6  miles 
southwest  of  Folsom,  on  the  Colorado  Southern  Railroad,  and  3  miles 
north  of  Dedman,  on  the  Rock  Island.  It  is  but  2  miles  north  of 


acres;  created  August  9, 1916. 


the  Ocean  to  Ocean  Highway,  and  automobiles  can  drive  to  the  base 
of  the  mountain. 

Capulin  Mountain  is  in  a  region  which  bears  evidences  of  much 
volcanic  activity  now  extinct,  several  other  craters  being  within  a 
radius  of  10  miles  from  Folsom.  The  crater  cone  of  Capulin  Moun 
tain  is  composed  in  part  of  lava  flow,  in  part  of  cemented  breccia, 
and  in  part  of  unconsolidated  cinders,  which  latter  are  fine  and  make 
climbing  difficult.  The  altitude  of  the  mountain  is  8,000  feet,  its 
height  above  the  surrounding  plain  being  1,500  feet.  The  crater  is 
1 ,500  feet  in  diameter,  75  feet  in  depth  from  the  lowest  point  of  the 
rim,  and  275  feet  from  the  highest  point.  Numerous  u blister  cones" 
are  found  on  the  crusts  of  the  more  recent  lava  flows,  consisting  of 


11 


irregularly  shaped  blocks  of  lava  appearing  in  various  forms,  some 
being  conical,  while  others  are  globular  or  elliptical.  In  places  the 
cavities  of  these  cones  are  large  enough  for  a  man  to  make  his  way 
through. 

The  monument  is  a  favorite  picnic  ground  for  parties  from  near-by 
towns. 

Mrs.  H.  TV .  Jack,  of  Folsom,  was  appointed  custodian  of  the  monu 
ment  on  August  15,  1916. 

CHACO  CANYON  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

The  remarkable  relics  of  an  unknown  people  in  Chaco  Canyon, 
N.  Mex.,  embrace  numerous  communal  or  pueblo,  dwellings  built  of 


T2IN.,  R.IIVV. 


T.2IN.,R.  IOW. 


T,17N.,R.I2W. 


T.I7N.,R.10W.         T.20N.,R.8W. 


Moreno        Pin+ado 


Chaco  Canyon  National  Monument,  N.  Mex.,  embracing  sees.  7  and  8  and  16  to  29,  inclusive,  T.  21  N., 
R.  10  W.;  sees.  1,  2,  3,  4,  and  8  to  14.  inclusive,  and  17.  19.  20.  and  30,  T.  21  N.,  R.  n  W.;  S.  -J  sec.  12. 
T.  20  N.,  R.  8  W.;  SE.  J  sec.  32,  T.  21  N.,  R.  12  W.;  BE.  i  sec.  28.  T.  17  N.,  R.  12  W.;  SE.  J  sec.  17  T! 
17  N,,  R.  10  W.;  New  Mexico  principal  meridian;  created  March  11,  1907. 

stone.  Among  them  is  the  ruin  known  as  Pueblo  Bonito,  contain 
ing,  as  it  originally  stood,  1,200  rooms,  the  largest  prehistoric  ruin 
yet  discovered  in  the  Southwest.  Numerous  other  ruins,  containing 
from  50  to  100  or  more  rooms,  are  scattered  along  Chaco  Canyon  and 
tributaries  for  a  distance  of  about  14  miles  and  upon  adjacent  terri 
tory  to  the  east,  south,  and  west  many  miles  farther.  The  most 
important  of  these  ruins  are  as  follows:  Pueblo  Bonito,  Chettro 
Kettle,  Arroyo,  New  Alto,  Old  Alto,  Kin-Klet  Soi,  Casa  Chiquita, 
Penasco  Blanco,  Kin-Kla-tzin,  Hungo  Pavis,  Unda  Vidie,  Weji-gi, 
Kim-me-ni-oh,  Kin-yai,  Casa  Morena,  and  Pintado. 

But  little  excavating  has  been  done  upon  this  monument,  and  what 
has  been  done  was  done  for  the  most  part  more  than  10  years  ago. 


12 

The  ruins,  which  are  the  principal  and  in  fact  the  only  features  of 
the  monument,  are  in  good  condition.  The  fact  that  but  little  exca 
vating  has  heen  done  in  them  leaves  the  monument  in  condition  for 
preservation  of  the  ruins  practically  in  their  entirety  for  such  his 
torical  purposes  as  imparting  ideas  of  the  life  of  the  peoples  who 
inhabited  them,  their  development,  etc. 

The  reservation  can  only  be  reached  by  team,  mountain  hack,  and 
camping  outfit  from  Farmington,  N.  Mex.,  on  the  Denver  &  Rio 
Grande  Railroad,  65  miles  to  the  north,  and  from  Gallup  or  Thoreau, 
N.  Mex.,  on  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Railway,  75  miles  and 
65  miles,  respectively,  to  the  south.  This  service  may  be  procured 
at  from  $6  to  $8  per  day,  with  driver,  exclusive  of  the  cost  of  feed 
and  subsistence. 

There  are  no  accommodations  for  the  public  at  or  near  the  monu 
ment,  and  visitors  must  resort  to  camping. 

The  trip  by  team  and  camp  outfit  is  suggested,  and  such  a  trip 
from  the  points  mentioned  will  consume  from  two  to  three  days  on 
the  road  each  way.  On  such  a  trip  the  driver  arranges  for  camping 
at  certain  water  holes  at  night,  and  after  arrival  at  the  ruins  there 
is  not  much  trouble  to  find  water.  Wood  is  scarce  on  the  ruins,  but 
coal  may  be  gotten  from  a  mine  4  miles  distant  from  Pueblo  Bonito, 
providing  one  is  equipped  to  dig  it.  The  country  traversed  is  a 
nigh,  rolling,  and  broken  plateau,  carrying  with  it  the  scenic  beauty 
and  attractiveness  of  immense  waste  of  land. 

COLORADO  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

This  area,  set  aside  as  a  national  monument  by  the  President's 
proclamation  of  May  24,  1911,  is  situated  near  Grand  Junction, 
Mesa  County,  Colo.,  from  which  that  portion  of  the  monument  known 
as  No  Thoroughfare  Canyon  is  reached  by  wagon  road.  Other  parts 
of  the  monument  are  reached  by  foot  trails.  The  site  is  in  a  pic 
turesque  canyon,  which  has  long  been  an  attractive  feature  of  that 
portion  of  the  State.  The  formation  is  similar  to  that  of  the  Garden 
of  the  Gods  at  Colorado  Springs,  Colo.,  only  much  more  beautiful 
and  picturesque.  With  the  exception  of  the  Grand  Canyon  of  the 
Colorado,  it  exhibits  probably  as  highly  colored,  magnificent,  and 
impressive  examples  of  erosion,  particularly  of  lofty  monoliths,  as 
may  be  found  anywhere  in  the  West.  These  monoliths  are  located 
in  several  tributary  canyons.  Some  of  them  are  of  gigantic  size, 
one  being  over  400  feet  high,  almost  circular  in  cross  section,  and  100 
feet  in  diameter  at  base.  There  are  also  many  caverns  within  the 
monument  which  have  not  been  explored.  There  are  many  fine 
springs  in  the  park,  which  furnish  water  to  visitors.  During  the 
winter  hundreds  of  deer  come  down  into  the  park. 

Mr.  John  Otto,  of  Fruita,  Colo.,  has  acted  as  custodian  of  this 
monument  since  June  7,  1911,  and  has  single  handed  surveyed  and 
built  several  good  roads  and  trails  and  has  carved  steps  in  the  mono 
liths  which  form  the  chief  scenic  features  of  the  monument.  Mr. 
Otto  spends  practically  all  of  his  time  in  the  monument  and  is  con 
tinually  at  work  in  making  the  monument  more  attractive  and 
accessible. 


13 

By  order  of  February  19,  1915,  the  President  modified  the  original 
proclamation  to  the  extent  of  authorizing  the  Secretary  of  the 
Interior  to  issue  permits  to  the  town  of  Fruita  to  occupy  and  use 
certain  lands  in  this  monument  in  township  11  south,  range  102 
west,  sixth  principal  meridian,  for  the  construction,  operation,  and 
maintenance  of  a  conduit  and  related  works  for  municipal  water 
supply  and  power  development. 


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Rs.  101  and  102  W.  of  the 

of  the  Ute  meridian,  Colorado,  con- 


Colorado  National  Monument,  Colo.,  embracing  parts  of  Tps.  11  and  12  S., 
sixth  principal  meridian,  and  part  of  sec.  32,  T.  1  N.,  R.  2  W.  of  the  Ut< 
taming  13,833.06  acres;  created  May  24, 1911. 

DEVILS  TOWER  NATIONAL,  MONUMENT. 

The  extraordinary  mass  of  igneous  rock  known  as  the  Devils 
Tower  is  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  and  notable  features  in  the 
Black  Hills  region,  and  has  been  known  and  utilized  doubtless  from 
time  immemorial  by  the  aborigines  of  the  plains  and  mountains,  for 
the  American  Indian  of  the  last  century  was  found  to  be  directing 
his  course  to  and  from  the  hunt  and  foray  by  reference  to  this  lofty 


14 

pile.  In  their  turn  the  white  pioneers  of  civilization,  in  their  ex 
ploration  of  the  great  Northwest,  which  began  with  the  expedition 
of  the  Verendryes,  pathfinders  of  the  French  Colonies  of  Canada,  in 
1742,  utilized  the  tower  as  a  landmark,  and  still  later  the  military 
expeditions  into  the  Sioux  and  Crow  Indian  country  during  the 
Indian  wars  of  the  last  century  carried  on  operations  within  sight  of 
the  Devils  Tower  or  directed  their  march  by  the  aid  of  its  ever-present 
beacon,  for  the  tower  is  visible  in  some  directions  in  that  practically 
cloudless  region  for  nearly  100  miles. 

The  tower  is  a  steep-sided  shaft  rising  600  feet  above  a  rounded 
ridge  of  sedimentary  rocks,  about  600  feet  high,  on  the  west  bank 


R66W. 


R.6SW. 


Devils  Tower  National  Monument,  Wyo.,  embracing  sec.  7  and  the  N.  A  NE.  4,  the  XE.  1NW.  \,  and  lot 
No.  1,  sec.  18,  T.  53  N.,  R.  65  W.;  the  E.  J  sec.  12  and  the  N.  }  NE. ~\  sec.  13,  T.  53  N.,  R.  66  W.,  sixth 
principal  meridian:  created  September  24.  1906. 

of  the  Belle  Fourche  River.  Its  nearly  Hat  top  is  elliptical  in  outline, 
with  a  diameter  varying  from  60  to  100  feet.  Its  sides  are  strongly 
fluted  by  the  great  columns  of  igneous  rock,  and  are  nearly  perpen 
dicular,  except  near  the  top,  where  there  is  some  rounding,  and  near 
the  bottom,  where  there  is  considerable  outward  flare.  The  base 
merges  into  a  talus  of  huge  masses  of  broken  columns  lying  on  a  plat 
form  of  the  lower  buff  sandstone  of  the  Sundance  geologic  forma 
tion.  Ascent  can  be  made  by  the  general  public  to  the  top  of  the 
base  which  surrounds  the  tower  proper;  it  is  not  pgssible,  however, 
for  ascent  of  the  tower  to  be  made.  The  tower  has  been  scaled  in 
the  past  by  means  of  special  apparatus,  but  only  at  considerable  risk. 
The  great  columns  of  which  the  tower  consists  are  mostly  pen 
tagonal  in  shape,  but  some  are  four  or  six  sided.  The  average  diam 
eter  is  6  feet,  and  in  general  the  columns  taper  slightly  toward  the 


15 


top.  In  places  several  columns  unite  in  their  upper  portions  to  form 
a  large  fluted  column.  The  columns  slope  inward  toward  the  top. 
They  are  not  much  jointed,  but  are  marked  horizontally  by  faint 
ridges  or  swellings,  which  give  the  rock  some  appearance  of  bedding, 
especially  toward  the  top  of  the  tower.  In  the  lower  quarter  or  third 
of  the  tower  the  columns  bend  outward  and  merge  rapidly  into  mas 
sive  rock,  which  toward  the  base  shows  but  little  trace  of  columnar 
structure.  This  massive  rock  circles  the  tower  as  a  bench,  extending 
out  from  30  to  40  feet.  On  the  southwest  face  the  long  columns  curve 
outward  over  the  massive,  basal  portion  and  lie  nearly  horizontal. 
The  rugged  pile  of  talus  extends  high  up  the  lower  slopes  of  the  mas 
sive  bench  at  the  base  of  the  tower  and  also  far  down  the  adjoining 
slopes  of  sedimentary  rocks. 

The  nearest  settlement  to  this  national  monument  is  Tower,  in 
Crook  County,  which  is  reached  by  stage  from  Moorcroft,  Wyo.,  a 
distance  of  32  miles.  Moorcroft  is  on  the  Chicago,  Burlington  & 
Quincy  Railway.  The  tower  may  also  be  reached  by  conveyance 
from  Hulett,  Wyo.,  which  in  turn  is  reached  by  stage  from  Aladdin, 
the  western  terminus  of  the  Wyoming  &  Missouri  River  Railway. 

DINOSAUR  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

This  national  monument,  created  by  proclamation  dated  October  4, 
1915,  embraces  80  acres  of  land  in  Uinta  County,  northeastern  Utah, 
east  of  Vernal,  and  near  the  Colorado  boundary.  By  this  procla 
mation  lands  are  reserved  upon  which  is  located  an  extraordinary 
deposit  of  dinosaurian  and  other  gigantic  reptilian  fossil  remains,  of 
the  Juratrias  geologic  period,  which  are  of  great  scientific  interest 
and  value,  the  object  of  creation  of  the  monument  being  to  prevent 
their  unauthorized  excavation  and  removal. 

This  tract  is  best  reached  from  Mack,  Colo.,  on  the  main  line  of  the 
Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  by  narrow-gauge  railroad  to  Watson, 
Utah,  a  distance  of  65  miles;  thence  by  automoblie  to  Vernal,  Utah, 
a  distance  of  54  miles;  thence  by  a  good  wagon  or  automobile  road 
to  the  monument,  18  miles  additional.  In  going  from  Salt  Lake 
City  the  traveler  would  leave  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad  at 
Helper,  Utah,  from  which  point  there  is  an  automobile  stage  line 
through  the  former  Uintah  .Indian  Reservation,  a  distance  of  120 
miles  to  Vernal.  The  monument  can  also  be  reached  by  automobile 
from  Salt  Lake  City  over  a  newly  constructed  road  through  the 
Uintah  Basin  via  Jensen,  Utah,  the  trip  occupying  one  day.  Surveys 
are  being  made  for  new  railroad  construction  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
monument,  and  doubtless  access  will  in  the  near  future  be  made 
much  easier. 

The  Uintah  Basin  has  been  known  since  1870  to  be  rich  in  fossil 
remains,  arid  several  expeditions  by  scientists  into  the  Basin  prior  to 
1908  met  with  much  success  in  locating  portions  of  dinosaur  skele 
tons.  In  the  latter  year  the  first  expedition  sent  out  by  the  Carnegie 
Museum,  of  Pittsburgh,  found  such  promising  material  that  a 
special  search  for  remains  of  dinosaurs  was  undertaken  in  1909  by 
the  museum,  with  result  that  in  August  of  that  year  Prof.  Earl  B. 
Douglass,  in  charge  of  the  expedition,  found  in  a  somewhat  peculiar 
sandstone  formation  a  complete  skeleton  of  a  dinosaur,  in  excellent 
preservation,  which  was  the  first  complete  skeleton  ever  discovered. 


16 


Excavation  incident  to  removal  of 'the  skeleton  resulted  in  location 
of  the  most  extensive  and  wonderful  deposit  of  fossils  of  extinct  ani 
mal  life  of  this  geologic  period  known  to  science. 

According  to  the  theory  advanced  by  most  scientists  who  have  vis 
ited  the  monument,  many  dinosaurs  and  other  prehistoric  animals 
must  have  floated  down  some  ancient  river,  from  a  source  unknown, 
and  become  embedded  in  a  sand  bar.  There  they  lay  for  countless 
years  until  they  were  covered  to  a  great  depth  in  the  sand.  Then 


Sec.26 


Dinosaur  National  Monument,  Utah,  embracing  the  NW.  1  of  the  SE.  \  and  the  NE.  \  of  the  SW.  1  of 
sec.  26,  (unsurveyed)  in  T.  4  S.,  R.  23  E.,  Salt  Lake  Mer;  created  October  4, 1915. 

came  a  seismic  upheaval  which  forced  the  sand  bed  among  the 
mountain  tops. 

The  Carnegie  Museum  filed  a  claim  under  the  mineral  laws  to  the 
location,  and  at  considerable  expense  conducted  extensive  quarry 
ing  operations.  This  quarry  has  been  a  continuous  surprise  in  tie 
great  number  of  species  of  these  remains  and  the  number  of  almost 
complete  skeletons  and  skulls  which  it  has  produced,  perfect  skulls 
being  especially  rare  among  the  relics  of  dinosaurs. 

Bv  decision  of  August  6,  1915,  the  department  held  that  the  lands 
within  the  Carnegie  Museum's  placer  claim  could  not  be  obtained 


17 

under  the  mining  laws,  and  recommended  to  the  President  the  desira 
bility  of  creating  a  national  monument  to  embrace  the  tract  in  which 
this  fossil  deposit  is  located,,  in  order  that  the  remains  might  be  pre 
served  for  the  use  of  scientific  institutions  and  for  the  benefit  of  the 
general  public.  This  action  resulted  in  the  proclamation  of  October 
4,  1915.  The  department  has,  however,  granted  a  permit  to  the 
museum  to  continue  its  excavations  during  the  year  1916,  and  to 
remove  the  specimens  found. 

The  work  under  the  direction  of  the  museum  has  reached  gigantic 
proportions,  and  a  great  quarry  has  been  gradually  developed.  As 
fast  as  the  bones  are  uncovered,  if  there  is  danger  of  their  being  broken 
off,  they  are  covered  with  plaster  of  paris,  and  as  soon -as  they  are 
taken  out  they  are  covered  with  burlap  steeped  in  wet  plaster  of 
paris,  so  that  when  this  wrapping  sets  the  bones  are  protected  from 
any  danger  of  being  broken  in  transit.  Every  foot  of  the  quarry  has 
been  surveyed  and  platted,  and  a  chart  prepared  showing  where 
every  bone  was  located.  The  rock  is  chiseled  with  the  greatest  care, 
removing  from  the  bones  a  thin  layer  at  a  time.  The  work  is  often 
very  difficult  because  sometimes  the  bones  will  be  found  jumbled 
together,  surrounded  by  a  hard  casing  of  sandstone.  Each  bone  is 
painted  brown,  as  it  rests  in  the  stone,  so  that  it  can  not  by  any  possi 
bility  be  mistaken  by  a  workman  for  rock.  The  greatest  achievement 
so  far  accomplished  has  been  the  uncovering  of  the  largest  Bronto- 
saurus  known  to  science.  Two  years  were  consumed  in  removing  the 
bones  of  this  one  monster  from  the  rock.  The  work  of  shipping  the 
specimens  is  most  arduous,  as  they  must  be  hauled  by  wagon  65  miles 
to  the  railroad. 

EL  MOBBO  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

A  feature  of  great  historic  interest  and  importance  is  the  so-called 
El  Morro  or  Inscription  Rock,  some  35  miles  almost  due  east  of  Zuni 
Pueblo  in  western-central  New  Mexico. 

El  Morro  is  an  enormous  sandstone  rock  rising  a  couple  of  hundred 
feet  out  of  the  plain  and  eroded  in  such  fantastic  forms  as  to  give  it 
the  appearance  of  a  great  castle,  hence  its  Spanish  name  A  small 
spring  of  w^ater  at  the  rock  made  it  a  convenient  camping  place  for 
the  Spanish  explorers  of  the  sixteenth,  seventeenth,  and  eighteenth 
centuries,  and  the  smooth  face  of  the  "castle"  well  adapted  it  to 
receive  the  inscriptions  of  the  cono.uerors  of  that  early  period. 

The  earliest  inscription  is  dated  February  18,  1526.  Historically 
the  most  important  inscription  is  that  of  Juan  de  Onate,  a  colonizer 
of  New  Mexico  and  the  founder  of  the  city  of  Santa  Fe,  in  1606.  It 
was  in  this  year  that  Onate  visited  El  Morro  and  carved  this  inscrip 
tion  on  his  return  from  a  trip  to  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  California. 
There  are  19  other  Spanish  inscriptions  of  almost  equal  importance, 
among  them  that  of  l)on  Diego  de  Vargas,  who  in  1692  reconquered 
the  Pueblo  Indians  after  their  rebellion  against  Spanish  authority  in 
16S(\ 

It  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  no  rock  formation  in  the  West  or 
perhaps  in  the  world  is  so  well  adapted  to  the  purpose  for  which  this 
table  of  stone  was  used — at  least  history  does  not  record  any  collec 
tion  of  similar  data.  Here  are  records  covering  two  centuries,  some 
of  which  are  the  only  extant  memoranda  of  the  early  expeditions  and 
84490°— 17 3 


18 

explorations  of  what  is  now  the  southwestern  part  of  the  United 
States.  On  these  smooth  walls,  usually  under  some  projecting 
stratum,  inscriptions  were  cut  by  the  early  conquerors  and  explorers, 
which  have  made  this  rock  one  among  the  most  interesting  objects  on 
the  continent. 

Here,  in  this  remote  and  uninhabited  region,  in  the  shadows  of  one 
of  nature's  most  unique  obelisks,  wrapped  in  the  profound  silence 
of  the  desert,  with  no  living  thing  to  break  the  stillness,  it  is  hard  to 
realize  that  300  years  ago  these  same  walls  echoed  the  clank  of  steel 
harness  and  coats  of  mail;  that  with  the  implements  of  Spanish  con 
quest  the  pathfinders  in  the  New  World  were  carving  historical  rec 
ords  upon  the  eternal  rock. 

Locally  Inscription  Rock  and  El  Morro  are  known  as  separate  and 
distinct  monumental  rocks.  The  latter,  translated  The  Castle,  is  the 
rock  standing  put  in  bold  relief  to  the  east,  while  Inscription  Rock  is 
the  name  applied  to  the  formation  to  the  west,  which  is  a  part  of  the 
mesa.  On  the  south  side,  in  the  angle  formed  by  the  two,  one  extend 
ing  east  and  the  other  south,  is  a  great  chamber  or  cavern,  a  natural 
amphitheater  where  secure  refuge  from  storm  or  human  foe  could 
easily  be  secured.  It  is  here,  too,  that  the  only  spring  within  many 
miles  wells  up  as  if  to  make  the  natural  fortification  doubly  secure. 
Upon  these  walls  are  many  of  the  best  preserved  Spanish  inscrip 
tions,  although  there  are  quite  a  number  200  feet  east,  under  the 
shadows  of  a  stately  pine  tree  and  on  the  north  side  of  El  Morro. 
Most  of  them  are  as  plain  and  apparently  as  legible  as  the  day  they 
were  written;  especially  is  this  true  of  the  older  ones,  carved  during 
the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth  centuries. 

The  existence  of  extensive,  prehistoric  ruins  on  the  very  summit  of 
Inscription  Rock  is  another  feature  of  interest.  On  the  top  of  the 
rock  a  deep  cleft  or  canyon  divides  the  western  end  of  the  formation. 
On  each  of  these  arms  is  the  remnant  of  large  communal  houses  or 
pueblos.  Some  of  the  walls  are  yet  standing,  and  the  ground  plans 
of  the  structures  are  well  defined.  That  on  the  south  arm,  and  almost 
overhanging  the  cavern  and  spring,  is  approximately  200  by  150  feet. 
Some  of  the  buildings  must  have  been  more  than  one  story  in  height. 

The  remarkable  natural  defenses  of  the  site  and  the  existence  of 
the  spring  doubtless  induced  the  builders  to  select  this  odd  location. 
At  some  distant  day  it  may  be  desirable  to  excavate  these  ruins  and 
thus  add  to  this  historic  spot  attractions  for  the  scientist  as  well  as 
the  general  public  who  are  interested  in  scenic  and  natural  curiosities. 

This  monument  is  usually  visited  from  Thoreau  or  Gallup,  N.  Mex., 
the  points  from  which  access  is  most  easily  had.  These  points  are  on 
the  main  line  of  the  Atchison,  Topcka  &  Santa  Fe  Railway,  and  the 
visit  to  the  monument  is  made  by  team  and  camp  outfit.  The  trip  is 
made  in  four  days,  in  five  for  better  comfort,  and  the  cost  for  team, 
mountain  hack,  and  driver,  not  including  cost  of  provisions  and  feed 
of  team,  is  from  $6  to  $8  per  day.  Good  livery  may  be  had  at  both 
of  said  points. 

The  main  (Chicago  to  San  Francisco)  line  of  the  Atchison,  To- 
peka  &  Santa  Fe  Railway  is  the  only  railroad  through  the  district, 
and  one  would  have  to  travel  hundreds  of  miles  overland  to  reach  the 
monument  by  any  other  railroad.  The  monument  is  approximately 
40  miles  by  stage  from  Thoreau,  N.  Mex.,  and  55  miles  by  like  con 
veyance  from  Gallup,  N.  Mex. 


19 

The  country  traversed  in  a  visit  from  Gallup  or  Thoreau  is  a  high, 
rolling  plateau  of  fair  scenic  beauty.  Plenty  of  water  holes  are 
present  along  the  road,  and  firewood  can  be  had  in  abundance  at  most 
any  place.  Some  forest  is  encountered  on  the  road  from  Gallup. 
The  monument  can  be  visited  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  the  summer, 
of  course,  being  the  most  delightful  time".  The  winters  in  the  section 
are  not  cold  or  severe,  and  visits  could  be  made  at  that  time  com 
fortably.  A  visit  to  this  monument  can  be  enlivened  by  incorporat 
ing  with  it  a  trip  to  the  Pueblo  of  the  Zuni  Indians,  there  visiting 
the  United  States  Indian  school  and  village.  This  visit  can  be  made 
without  detouring  any  extent  while  going  to  the  monument.  The 
village  mentioned  is  spoken  of  in  the  records  of  the  visits  of  the  first 
Spanish  explorers  to  the  region  in  the  latter  part  of  the  fifteenth  and 


El  Morro  National  Monument,  N.  Mcx    embracing  the  S.  i  NE.  J  and  N.  \  SE.  J  sec.  6,  T.  9  N.,  R.  14  W.t 
New  Mexico  meridian;  created  December  8,  1906. 

first  part  of  the  sixteenth  centuries,  and  is  the  oldest  continuously 
occupied  Pueblo  Indian  village  in  existence  so  far  as  is  known. 

During  January  of  1917  the  National  Park  Service  caused  to  be 
constructed  a  substantial  fence  If  miles  in  length  at  the  base  of 
Inscription  Rock  for  the  protection  of  the  inscriptions  against  depre 
dations  of  cattle,  and  as  an  inclosure  for  visitors'  stock;  and  in  order 
to  secure  an  ample  supply  of  water  has  caused  the  ancient  spring  to 
be  thoroughly  cleaned  out. 

GRAN  QTJIVIRA  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

The  Gran  Quivira  has  long  been  recognized  as  one  of  the  most 
important  of  the  earliest  Spanish  church  or  mission  ruins  in  the  South 
west.  Near  by  are  numerous  Indian  pueblo  ruins  of  community 
buildings  occupying  an  area  of  probably  80  acres  in  extent,  which, 
with  sufficient  land  to  protect  them,  were  reserved  by  the  proclamation 
creating  this  monument. 


20 

The  outside  dimensions  of  the  church  ruin,  which  is  in  the  form  of 
a  short-arm  cross,  are  about  48  by  140  feet.  The  main  walls  of 
this  edifice  are  from  4  to  6  feet  in  thickness  and  constructed  of  a 
dense  limestone  laid  in  courses  in  a  natural  mud  bond,  the  interior 
section  of  the  walls  being  a  coarse  aggregate  of  mud  and  broken 
rock,  and  the  exterior  faces  of  the  walls  being  laid  up  nicely  in 
courses  of  selected  stone.  The  present  height  from  the  ground  inside 
this  chamber  to  the  top  of  the  wall  is  some  23  to  25  feet,  but  an  old 
excavation  at  one  end  of  the  chamber  into  the  debris  that  partially 
fills  the  same  shows  that  the  floor  of  this  chamber  was  perhaps  12 
to  1 5  feet  under  the  present  surface,  making  the  original  walls  from 
the  foundation  some  40  feet  in  height.  The  west  end  of  this  chamber 
is  arched  in  the  form  of  a  nave,  and  near  the  west  end  two  side  rooms 
existed,  one  on  each  side,  completing  the  cross  plan  of  the  structure. 

The  main  community  building,  lying  just  to  the  south  of  this 
church  was  a  completed  structure  at  least  three  stories  in  height, 
being  built  in  the  same  way  that  all  the  community  buildings  of  the 
original  inhabitants  of  the  Southwest  were  built — that  is,  with  little 
rooms  some  12  to  15  feet  square  and  8  to  10  feet  high,  set  in  adjoin 
ing  tiers,  with  a  little  door  communicating  between  each  room,  and 
having  three  or  more  tiers  of  this  character  of  structure,  one  upon 
the  other,  communication  with  the  different  stories  being  by  ladder 
through  port  holes.  Enough  of  the  walls  of  this  main  building  are 
present  to  show  that  it  was  at  least  three  stories  in  height,  and  said 
walls  are  built  in  a  manner  similar  to  the  walls  of  the  church  building 
the  interior  walls  being  about  5  feet  thick  and  the  exterior  wall  being 
some  30  inches  thick.  The  roof  has  fallen  in  and  the  main  portion  of 
the  house  is  filled  in  part  with  debris  from  the  roof  and  the  crumbled 
side  walls. 

The  rest  of  the  surrounding  buildings  are  in  complete  ruin,  being 
for  the  most  part  heaps  of  broken  stone  and  mud  mortar,  indicating 
merely  their  original  outline  and  location. 

No  excavation  of  any  moment  has  been  done  upon  this  monu 
ment.  The  main  church  building  would  need  only  about  15  feet  of 
excavation,  but  the  dimensions  and  nature  of  this  structure  are 
plainly  evident  and  nicely  preserved  in  its  present  state,  the  walls 
being  only  partially  crumbled  at  the  top  in  different  sections.  Only 
enough  excavation  on  the  main  community  building,  lying;  imme 
diately  to  the  south  of  the  church,  has  been  done  to  disclose  the 
fact  that  it  was  about  three  or  more  stories  in  height,  and  to  get 
the  actual  dimensions  and  number  of  rooms,  considerable  work  of  that 
character  would  be  required,  although  from  its  present  condition  a 
very  good  suggestion  of  its  original  outline  and  dimensions  can  be 
had. 

The  altitude  at  the  ruins  is  about  6,800  feet  and  the  ruins  them 
selves  are  built  upon  an  eminence  visible  for  a  great  distance,  com 
manding  a  vast  expanse  in  all  directions. 

They  are  not  fenced,  but  lie  out  on  the  open,  rolling  prairie  which 
is  used  only  as  a  grazing  country  for  sheep  and  cattle. 

For  the  reason  that  water  has  not  been  developed  in  this  vicinity 
the  country  is  not  inhabited  for  many  miles  around. 

On  September  12,  1910,  the  Interior  Department  requested  the 
Department  of  Agriculture  to  assume  temporary  charge  of  patrol 
and  protection  of  this  monument,  in  view  of  the  better  facilities  at 


21 


the  disposal  of  the  Forest  Service  in  the  Manzano  National  Forest, 
inasmuch  as  the  monument  is  remote  from  location  of  any  field 
officer  of  the  Interior  Department;  and  this  charge  was  accepted  by 
the  Department  of  Agriculture.  A  ranger  of  the  Forest  Service 
of  that  department  visits  the  monument  every  few  weeks. 

The  Business  Men's  Association  of  Mountainair,  N.  Mex.,  is  very 
active  in  preservation  of  the  monument  and  in  prevention  of  van 
dalism,  the  site  being  visited  (except  in  winter)  by  some  member  of 
the  association  at  least  once  every  two  weeks. 

On  account  of  the  altitude  of  the  monument  the  region  is  subject 
to  heavy  snows  between  the  middle  of  December  and  the  latter  part 


^////'////f/  Monument    Boundary 

Gran  Quivira  National  Monument,  N.  Mex.,  embracing  unsurveyed  N.  J  of  N.  %  sec.  3,  T.  1  S.,  R.  8 
10.,  New  Mexico  principal  meridian;  created  November  1, 1909. 

of  March,  so  that  visits  to  the  monument  during  those  months  are 
not  practicable.  At  other  seasons  the  monument  is  best  reached  by 
stage  or  automobile  by  a  good  road  from  Mountainair,  which  is  24 
miles  distant  on  the  Santa  Fe  Railway.  Service  of  both  classes  may 
be  obtained  in  Mountainair  at  any  time,  the  parties  operating  auto 
mobiles  for  benefit  of  tourist  traffic  having  established  a  schedule, 
so  that  parties  of  four  people  can  visit  the  monument  for  $12  for  the 
round  trip;  and  parties  01  three  persons  or  less,  $10  for  the  round 
trip.  There  are  no  accommodations  at  the  ruins,  but  water  can  be 
found  along  the  route.  The  automobile  trip  occupies  one  day. 


22 

Other  points  of  exceeding  interest  to  tourists  are  located  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  Mountainair  and  the  Gran  Quivira  National 
Monument,  though  not  upon  Federal  reservations.  These  are  the 
ruins  of  Montezuma,  of  a  nature  similar  to  the  Gran  Quivira  and 
some  8  miles  to  the  northwest  thereof;  the  region  of  Abo  and  the 
Painted  Rocks,  having  a  rather  interesting  geological  origin,  show 
ing  geologic  studies  in  highly  colored  formation  for  a  thickness  of 
some  4,000  feet;  the  ruins  and  ancient  Mexican  villages  of  Cuarai, 
Punta,  and  Manzano,  as  well  as  Tajique  and  Chilili.  These  points 
are  approximately  the  same  distance  in  a  northerly  direction  from 
Mountainair  and  have  ancient  ruins  of  churches  and  community 
dwellings,  and  are  some  of  the  best  examples  extant  of  the  original 
plaza  villages  of  the  native  Mexican  population,  the  villages  dating 
back  to  the  very  earliest  Spanish  settlement  of  this  country,  and 
showing  the  native  life  as  it  has  always  been,  without  alteration. 

LEWIS  AND  CLARK  CAVERN  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

The  feature  of  this  monument  is  a  limestone  cavern  of  great  scien 
tific  interest,  because  of  its  length  and  because  of  the  number  of  large 
vaulted  chambers  it  contains.  It  is  of  historic  interest,  also,  because 
it  overlooks  for  a  distance  of  more  than  50  miles  the  trail  of  Lewis 
and  Clark  along  the  Jefferson  River,  named  by  them.  The  vaults 
of  the  cavern  are  magnificiently  decorated  with  stalactite  and  stalag 
mite  formations  of  great  variety  in  size,  form,  and  color,  the  equal 
of,  if  not  rivaling,  the  similar  formations  in  the  well-known  Luray 
caves  in  Virginia. 

The  cavern  is  located  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  northeasterly 
from  Cavern,  a  post  office  in  Jefferson  County,  and  a  station  on  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railway  about  45  miles  southwest  from  Butte, 
Mont.  It  is  situated  in  a  massive  deposit  of  what  is  known  as  Madi 
son  limestone,  which  at  this  place  dips  steeply  to  the  southwest.  The 
various  chambers  in  the  cave  as  far  as  explored  extend  for  a  distance 
of  about  700  feet  horizontally  and  350  feet  vertically,  but  there  are 
many  openings  and  passages  that  have  never  been  explored.  The 
chambers  and  passages  seem  in  general  to  follow  the  dip  of  the  for 
mation.  The  cavern  is  best  reached  by  following  the  railroad  track 
easterly  for  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  and  then  following  a  circuitous 
road  or  trail  about  1J  miles.  The  mouths  of  the  cavern  are  1,300  feet 
above  the  railroad,  and  the  climb, requiring  about  an  hour  and  a  half, 
is  arduous.  There  are  two  entrances  both  situated  upon  the  walls  of  a 
deep  canyon  about  500  feet  below  the  rim.  The  smaller  entrance, 
which  is  merely  a  hole  about  6  feet  in  diameter  opening  into  the  upper 
part  of  a  large  passage,  can  not  be  used  as  a  means  of  access  to  the 
cavern  unless  ropes  are  employed.  The  entrances  are  about  125  feet 
apart. 

From  the  main  entrance  broad  stairs  lead  irregularly  to  a  depth  of 
about  175  feet,  from  which  level  several  of  the  most  interesting  parts  of 
the  cavern  are  accessible  in  a  nearly  horizontal  direction.  To  get 
lower  in  the  cavern  a  small  tortuous  passage  is  followed  for  100  feet 
or  more,  and  descent  is  made  by  ladders. 

Depredations  by  vandals  which  threatened  serious  harm  to  the 
formations  in  the  cavern  made  it  necessary  for  the  department  to 


23 


close  the  cavern  to  the  general  public,  and  accordingly  the  main 
entrance  was  closed  by  a  partition,  and  locked.  This  means  was 
found  to  be  ineffective,  for  the  purpose  intended,  and  during  the 
month  of  June,  1916,  a  concrete  and  iron-barred  door  structure  was 
installed  at  the  main  entrance,  and  an  iron-bar  frame  installed  over 
the  smaller  opening;  stairs  and  ladders  in  the  cave  were  scraped  and 
repainted,  and  several  ladders  replaced.  New  steps  at  the  entrance 
were  built.  The  total  cost  of  improvements  was  $980.94,  and  was 


9 


18 


Sec.*/? 


Entrance 


IS 


13 


20 


T.  1  N.   R.  2  W. 


21 


M on  urn  en  f  Boun  dary 


Lewis  and  Clark  Cavern  National  Monument,  Mont.,  embracing  lot  12,  sec.  17,  T.  1  N.,  R.  2  W.;  Montana 
principal  meridian;  created  May  11,  1908,  and  boundaries  modified  as  above,  May  16,  1911. 

paid  from  the  appropriation  for  protecting  the  public  lands,  1916, 
expendable  under  the  General  Land  Office. 

The  entrance  to  the  cave  is  locked  and  keys  are  in  custody  of  the 
chief  of  field  division  of  the  General  Land  Office  in  Helena,  Mont.  It 
will  be  necessary  to  exclude  the  public  from  the  cavern  until  arrange 
ments  can  be  made  to  provide  a  custodian  for  the  monument,  who 
can  conduct  visitors  through  the  cavern  and  guard  against  damage  to 
the  formations. 


24 

The  second  proclamation  establishing  this  monument  is  as  follows: 

Whereas  the  unsurveyed  tract  of  land  containing  an  extraordinary  limestone 
cavern  and  embracing  160  acres,  situated  in  township  one  north,  range  two  west 
of  the  Montana  principal  meridian,  Montana,  and  which  was  created  the  Lewis 
and  Clark  Cavern  National  Monument  by  proclamation  dated  the  llth  day  of  May, 
1908,  has  recently  been  definitely  located  by  an  official  survey  thereof,  made  under 
the  direction  of  the  Commissioner  of  the  General  Land  Office,  and  such  survey  having 
determined  that  the  tract  in  question  lies  wholly  within  the  limits  of  the  grant  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railway  Co.,  but  has  not  yet  been  patented  to  that  company; 

And  whereas  by  its  quitclaim  deed  the  said  Northern  Pacific  Railway  Co.  relin 
quished  unto  the  United  States  all  its  right,  title,  and  interest  to  lot  12,  section  17, 
township  1  north,  range  2  west  of  the  Montana  principal  meridian,  Montana,  the  same 
being  the  original  tract  proclaimed  a  national  monument  for  the  purpose  of  maintaining 
thereon  the  said  Lewis  and  Clark  Cavern  National  Monument,  under  the  condition 
that  the  instrument  of  relinquishmcnt  shall  become  void  and  the  premises  imme 
diately  revert  to  the  grantor  should  the  monument  no  longer  be  maintained. 

Now,  therefore,  I,  William  H.  Taft,  President  of  the  United  States  of  America,  by 
virtue  of  the  power  in  me  vested  by  section  two  of  the  act  of  Congress  approved  June  8, 
1906,  entitled  "An  act  for  the  preservation  of  American  antiquities,"  do  hereby  set 
aside  and  confirm  as  the  Lewis  and  Clark  Cavern  National  Monument  the  said  tract, 
embracing  one  hundred  and  sixty  acres  of  land,  at  and  surrounding  the  limestone 
cavern  in  section  seventeen,  township  one  north,  range  two  west,  Montana,  subject 
to  the  conditions  set  forth  in  the  relinquishment  and  quitclaim  deed  No.  18129E, 
dated  February  14,  1911,  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railway  Company,  the  said  tract 
being  in  square  form  and  designated  as  lot  twelve  in  the  survey  and  deed,  with  side 
lines  running  north  and  south  and  all  sides  equidistant  from  the  main  entrance  of  the 
said  cavern,  the  center  of  said  entrance  bearing  north  forty-nine  degrees,  forty-two 
minutes  west,  fifty-three  and  thirteen  hundredths  chains  distant  from  the  corner  to 
sections  sixteen,  seventeen,  twenty,  and  twenty-one,  as  shown  upon  the  diagram 
hereto  attached  and  made  a  part  hereof. 

Warning  is  hereby  expressly  given  to  all  persons  not  to  appropriate,  injure,  or 
destroy  any  of  the  natural  formations  in  the  cavern  hereby  declared  to  be  a  national 
monument,  nor  to  locate  or  settle  upon  any  of  the  lands  reserved  and  made  a  part  of 
said  monument  by  this  proclamation. 

In  witness  whereof  I  have  hereunto  set  my  hand  and  caused  the  seal  of  the  United 
States  to  be  affixed. 

Done  at  the  city  of  Washington  this  sixteenth  day  of  May,  in  the  year 
[SEAL.]  of  our  Lord  one  thousand  nine  hundred  and  eleven,  and  of  the  inde 

pendence  of  the  United  States  the  one  hundred  and  thirty-fifth. 

MONTEZUMA  CASTLE  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

This  national  monument  is  situated  3  miles  east  of  Camp  Verde,  in 
the  northeastern  part  of  Yavapai  County,  Ariz.,  and  contains  an 
assemblage  of  cliff  dwellings,  from  the  principal  of  which,  known  as 
Montezuma's  Castle,  the  monument  is  named.  This  structure  is 
of  very  great  interest  not  only  because  of  its  picturesqueness  but  for 
ethnological  and  other  scientific  reasons.  It  is  strictly  a  cliff  dwell 
ing,  with  the  added  importance  that  it  is  also  a  communal  house. 
Although  very  small  as  compared  with  the  great  ruins  of  Chaco 
Canyon,  Canyon  de  Chelley,  Mesa  Verde,  the  Mancos,  and  other 
localities  in  the  Southwest,  it  is  so  unique  in  location  and  structural 
design  and  so  perfectly  preserved  that  it  may  be  said  to  have  no 
equal  in  the  United  States. 

The  character  of  the  material  used  in  the  Verde  cliff  ruins,  adobe, 
rubble,  and  a  soft  calcareous  stone,  has  rendered  the  progress  of 
disintegration  and  ruin  somewhat  rapid,  though  many  centuries 
must  have  elapsed  since  the  passing  of  the  race.  The  Mojave  Apache 
Indians,  who  occupied  the  valley  at  the  advent  of  the  white  men, 
have  no  tradition  respecting  the  existence  of  the  people  who  formerly 
occupied  this  region.  Montezuma's  Castle,  it  is  stated,  is  the  only 


25 

single  perfect  specimen  and  type  of  the  architectural  skill  of  the 
prehistoric  cliff  dwellers  of  this  valley. 

The  monument  embraces  a  prehistoric  cliff-dwelling  ruin  of  un 
usual  size  situated  in  a  niche  or  cavity  in  the  face  of  a  vertical  cliff 
175  feet  in  height.  The  formation  exposed  along  the  face  of  the  cliff 
is  a  compact  tufa  or  volcanic  ash.  About  half  way  up  the  cliff  there 
is  a  bed  of  soft,  unconsolidated  tufa  which  has  suffered  considerable 
erosion,  leaving  irregular-shaped  cavities.  The  bed  of  soft  material 
is  overlain  by  a  harder  formation  which  has  withstood  erosion  and 
thus  formed  an  overhanging  sheltering  reef. 

The  cliff-dwelling  ruin  known  as  Montezuma's  Castle  is  situated  in 
one  of  these  cavities,  the  foundation  being  about  80  feet  above  the 


Montezuma  Castle  National  Monument,  Ariz.,  embracing  the  NW.  jNW.Jsec.  16,  the  N.  J  NE.  \  and 
NE.  \  NW.  i  sec.  17,  T.  14  N.,  R.  5  E.,  Gila  and  Salt  River  meridian;  created  December  8,  1906. 

base  of  the  cliff.  The  unique  position  and  size  of  the  ruin  give  it  the 
appearance  of  an  ancient  castle  and  doubtless  accounts  for  the  pres 
ent  name.  Access  to  the  castle  or  ruin  is  made  from  the  base  of  the 
cliff  by  means  of  wooden  ladders  placed  against  the  face  of  the  cliff 
and  anchored  thereto  with  iron  pins. 

The  structure  is  about  50  feet  in  height  by  60  feet  in  width,  built 
in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  with  the  convex  part  against  the  cliff.  It 
is  five  stories  high,  the  fifth  story  being  back  under  the  cliff  and 
protected  by  a  masonry  wall  4  feet  high,  so  that  it  is  not  visible  from 
the  outside.  The  walls  of  the  structure  are  of  masonry  and  adobe, 
plastered  over  on  the  inside  and  outside  with  mud.  The  cliff  forms 
the  back  part  of  the  structure,  the  front  and  outer  walls  being  bound 

84490°— 17 4 


26 

to  the  cliff  with  round  timbers  6  to  10  inches  in  diameter,  the  outside 
ends  projecting  through  the  outer  walls  and  the  other  end  placed 
against  the  cliff.  These  timbers  serve  as  joists  for  the  several  stories, 
the  floors  being  made  by  placing  small  poles  at  right  angles  to  the 
larger  timbers  and  covering  with  a  thatch  of  willows,  on  top  of 
which  there  is  a  covering  of  mud  and  stones  8  inches  thick. 

From  the  appearance  of  the  walls  now  standing,  the  structure  orig 
inally  contained  25  rooms,  19  of  which  are  now  in  fairly  good  condi 
tion.  Besides  the  main  building,  there  are  many  cave  chambers 
below  and  at  each  side  of  the  castle.  These  small  chambers  are 
neatly  walled  up  in  front  and  have  small  doorways. 

The  rooms  average  about  6  by  8  feet  in  size  and  are  about  7  feet 
high.  They  are  connected  by  small  doorways,  and  the  outside  rooms 
have  small  peepholes,  from  which  a  view  of  the  outside  can  be  had. 
These  were  probably  used  for  portholes  through  which  arrows  could 
be  shot. 

The  timbers  in  the  building  are  hacked  on  the  ends  and  were 
doubtless  cut  with  stone  axes.  They  are  in  a  good  state  of  preserva 
tion,  no  decay  having  set  in  owing  to  the  dry  climate.  The  main  part 
of  the  structure  is  sheltered  by  the  overhanging  cliff,  and  the  walls, 
thus  protected  from  storms,  are  in  good  condition.  The  front  part 
of  the  structure  is  not  so  well  protected  and  the  outer  walls  are 
wearing  away  and  crumbling.  They  are  broken  in  various  ways  and 
some  are  partially  fallen  and  others  remain  simply  as  wing  walls, 
without  support.  Others  are  cracked  and  broken  so  that  their  adhe 
sive  qualities  are  missing.  A  slight  pressure  might  serve  to  precipi 
tate  them  to  the  ground.  The  greatest  care  should  be  observed  by 
visitors  on  this  account,  and  also  in  going  upon  floors  to  upper  rooms, 
because  the  original  timbers  have  become  very  brittle  through  age 
and  will  not  withstand  much  weight. 

The  method  principally  employed  by  the  public  in  reaching  the 
castle  is  by  automobile  from  Prescott,  on  the  Santa  Fe,  Prescott.  & 
Phoenix  Railroad,  a  branch  of  the  Santa  Fe  system,  54  miles  to  the 
west;  or  from  Jerome,  Ariz.,  on  a  branch  line  of  the  same  railroad,  27 
miles  distant  from  the  monument.  A  fine  automobile  road  has  recently 
been  constructed  from  Prescott  to  Camp  Verde,  a  small  settlement  3 
miles  west  of  the  castle,  and  the  trip  from  Prescott  to  the  castle  and 
return  can  now  be  comfortably  made  in  one  day.  The  castle  can  also 
be  reached  from  Flagstaff,  a  station  on  the  main  line  of  the  Santa  Fc 
Railway,  58  miles  to  the  north.  The  roads,  however,  are  verv  heavy, 
and  the  trip  can  not  be  made  by  automobile  without  considerable 
difficulty.  Tourists  frequently  make  the  trip  from  Flagstaff  by  team, 
as  it  affords  an  opportunity  of  going  through  the  large  pine  forest 
lying  to  the  south  of  Flagstaff.  There  are  two  garages  in  Prescott 
making  a  specialty  of  taking  parties  to  the  castle.  Each  furnishes  a 
driver  who  acts  as  a  guide. 

Visitors  to  the  Castle  should  avoid  periods  of  high  water,  because 
the  cliff  in  which  the  castle  is  located  rises  from  the  bed  of  Beaver 
Creek,  and  for  a  distance  of  some  300  yards  the  water  comes  in  con 
tact  with  the  edge  of  the  cliff.  For  this  reason  the  castle  is  prac 
tically  inaccessible  at  times  of  high  water. 


27 


MUIB  WOODS  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

The  Muir  Woods,  named  in  honor  of  the  late  John  Muir1  (1838- 
1914),  explorer,  naturalist,  and  writer,  were  established  as  a  national 
monument  by  proclamation  of  January  9,  1908.  The  monument  was 
created  to  preserve  a  remarkable  grove  of  redwood  trees  on  a  tract 
of  land  presented  to  the  Government  for  this  purpose  by  William  Kent 
and  his  wife,  Elizabeth  Thatcher  Kent,  of  Chicago,  111. 

The  deed  conveying  this  land  to  the  United  States  described  it  as 
follows : 

Beginning  at  a  stake,  A.  7,  driven  in  the  center  of  the  road  in  Redwood  Canon 
and  located  by  the  following  courses  and  distances  from  the  point  of  commencement 


Muir  Woods  National  Monument,  Cal.,  in  T.  1 N.,  R.  6  W.,  Mount  Diablo  meridian;  created  January  9, 1908. 

of  the  tract  of  land  which  was  conveyed  by  the  Tamalpais  Land  and  Water  Company 
to  William  Kent  by  a  deed  dated  August  29th,  1905,  and  recorded  in  the  office  of 
the  county  recorder  of  Marin  County,  California,  Book  95  of  Deeds,  at  page  58,  to  wit: 
North  eighteen  degrees  thirty-two  minutes,  east  two  hundred  thirty-two  and  sixty- 
four  hundredths  feet,  north  sixty-six  degrees  thirty  minutes,  west  one  hundred  and 
sixty-seven  and  thirty-four  hundredths  feet,  north  eighty-six  degrees  twenty-five 

i  The  name  was  selected  by  the  donor,  William  Kent,  who  declined  to  accept  the  President's  suggestion 
that  the  reservation  should  be  named  the  Kent  Monument.  For  the  correspondence  regarding  the  gift 
and  the  name,  see  the  Sierra  (  lub  Bulletin,  Vol.  VI,  pp.  2^7-288.  1910. 

Recollections  of  Muir  by  several  friends  and  a  bibliography  of  his  works  may  be  found  in  the  John  Muir 
memorial  number  of  the  Sierra  Club  Bulletin,  vol.  X,  Jan.,  1916. 


28 

minutes,  west  ninety-eight  and  sixty-two  himdredths  feet,  north  seventy  degrees  no 
minutes,  west  two  hundred  and  forty-one  and  seven  himdredths  feet,  north  fifty-seven 
degrees  twenty-nine  minutes,  west  one  hundred  seventy-eight  and  three-hundredths 
feet,  north  forty-six  degrees  twenty-two  minutes,  west  two  hundred  thirty-five  and 
thirty- nine  hundredths  feet,  and  north  twenty-four  degrees  twenty-five  minutes,  west 
two  hundred  twenty-five  and  fifty-six  himdredths  feet;  thence  from  said  stake,  A.  7, 
the  point  of  beginning,  south  fifty-four  degrees  nineteen  minutes,  west  fourteen 
hundred  eighty-two  and  seven- tenths  feet  to  Station  A.  8,  from  which  Station  4  of 
the  survey  of  the  tract  of  land  conveyed  to  William  Kent  as  aforesaid  bears  south 
fifty-four  degrees  nineteen  minutes,  west  three  hundred  ten  feet  distant:  thence 
from  said  Station  A.  8  north  forty-seven  degrees  thirty  minutes,  west  twenty-six 
hundred  eighty  feet;  thence  due  west  six  hundred  fifty  and  eight-tenths  feet;  thence 
north  fifty-two  degrees  thirty  minutes,  west  eleven  hundred  feet;  thence  north  nine 
teen  degrees  forty-five  minutes,  west  ten  hundred  fifty-eight  and  four-tenths  feet  to 
Station  A.  12,  from  which  Station  16  of  the  survey  of  the  tract  of  land  conveyed  to 
William  Kent  as  aforesaid  bears  south  eighty- three  degrees  forty- two  minutes,  west 
three  hundred  ten  feet  distant;  thence  north  eighty- three  degrees  forty-two  minutes, 
east  thirty-one  hundred  nine  and  two-tenths  feet;  thence  north  fifty-five  degrees 
twenty-eight  minutes,  east  fifteen  hundred  fifty  feet  to  an  iron  bolt,  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  in  diameter  and  thirty  inches  long,  Station  14;  thence  south  seventeen 
degrees  eighteen  minutes,  east  twenty-eight  hundred  twenty  and  nine-tenths  feet; 
thence  south  four  degrees  ten  minutes,  east  nine  hundred  thirty  feet  to  a  stake,  A.  16, 
driven  in  the  center  of  a  graded  road;  and  thence  south  forty-five  degrees  seventeen 
minutes,  west  two  hundred  ninety-eight  and  five-tenths  feet  to  said  stake  A.  7,  the 
place  of  beginning.  Containing  an  area  of  two  hundred  ninety-five  acres,  a  little 
more  or  less. 

These  lands  consist  of  one  of  the  most  noted  redwood  groves  in  the 
State  of  California,  and  until  donated  to  the  Government  were  held 
in  private  ownership  by  Mr.  Kent.  The  tract  is  of  great  scientific 
interest,  as  it  contains  many  redwood  trees  which  have  grown  to  a 
height  of  300  feet  and  have  a  diameter  at  the  butt  of  18  feet  or  more. 
The  tract  is  heavily  wooded  and  contains,  in  addition  to  redwood, 
much  oak  and  Douglas  fir. 

The  monument  may  be  readily  reached  from  San  Francisco,  CaL, 
by  ferryboat  to  Sausalito,  thence  to  Mill  Valley  by  electric  train. 
The  distance  in  direct  line  is  about  7  miles.  It  is  in  close  proximity 
to  a  large  and  growing  suburban  population. 

Mr.  Andrew  Lind,  appointed  custodian  of  this  monument  in  con 
nection  with  the  Field  Service  of  the  General  Land  Office  on  July  1 1 , 
1910,  is  still  in  charge.  He  is  engaged  exclusively  in  patrolling  the 
monument,  enforcing  the  rules  and  regulations,  and  in  removing 
debris  from  the  roads  and  trails.  He  reports  that  during  the  past 
year  visitors  to  the  park  numbered  approximately  35,000. 

MTJKTJNTTJWEAP  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

The  Mukuntuweap  National  Monument,  Utah,  embraces  among 
other  mountain  scenery  the  magnificent  gorge  of  the  North  Fork  of 
the  Virgin  River  called  the  Mukuntuweap l  Canyon  by  the  Powell 
Topographic  Survey  of  Southwestern  Utah  (Kanab  sheet),  known 
locally  as  Zion  Canyon.  The  monument  is  located  in  the  eastern 
part  of  Washington  County.  It  was  formed  apparently  by  some 
powerful  upheaval  of  nature  which  divided  the  mountain  as  it  for 
merly  existed  at  its  crest.  From  the  top  of  the  walls  forming  this 
canyon  the  country  slopes  away  and  not  toward  it,  as  is  usually  the 
case.  This  upheaval  of  nature  left  standing  vertical  walls  on  either 

i  The  meaning  of  this  name  is  variously  given  as  "Rocky  land,"  "  Yellow  land,"  or  "Home  of  the  Gods." 
Maj.  Powell,  who  first  published  the  name,  says:  "The  Indians  call  the  canyon  Mu-koon-tu-weap,  or 
Straight  Canyon."  (Exploration  Colorado  River  of  the  West,  p.  Ill,  1875.) 


29 

side,  thus  forming  the  canyon  through  which  flows  the  North  Fork  of 
the  Virgin  River.  At  its  south,  end  the  canyon  is  about  2,500  feet 
wide,  but  it  gradually  narrows  for  a  distance  of  about  7  miles  until 
a  point  is  reached  where,  with  outstretched  arms,  the  finger  tips  touch 
the  walls  on  either  side.  At  a  number  of  places  the  walls  of  this 
canyon  rise  vertically  to  a  height  of  about  3,000  feet,  exhibiting  a 
plane  surface  of  extremely  hard  pink  sandstone,  greater  in  area,  it  is 
said,  than  may  be  found  in  the  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Colorado. 
These  walls  are  practically  unscalable  within  the  limits  of  the  monu 
ment,  except  at  one  point  about  5  miles  from  the  southern  end  and 
8  miles  from  the  northern  extremity. 

Distributed  along  the  canyon  are  a  number  of  waterfalls  formed  by 
the  small  mountain  ^streams  leaping  from  the  dizzy  heights  of  the 
cliffs  above.  The  barrenness  of  the  walls  and  cliffs  is  relieved  by  a 
variety  of  mountain  trees,  including  ash,  maple,  oak,  and  spruce. 
Unlike  other  great  canyons  having  rugged  and  uneven  walls,  this 
presents  the  appearance  of  a  mighty  mountain  cut  in  two,  to  obtain 
a  segment  for  the  purpose  of  studying  its  cross  section.  Entering 
the  canyon  from  the  south  one  gets  a  view  of  a  part  of  this  cross 
section,  which  assumes  the  form  of  a  huge  battleship.  This  is  known 
by  most  people  living  in  the  locality  as  "  Steamboat  Mountain." 
Farther  along  other  peaks  stand  presenting  the  appearance  of  cross 
sections  of  castles  or  fortresses  rather  than  the  structure  complete. 

At  some  points  the  mighty  stone  walls  are  of  beautiful  tints.  The 
faces  of  some  of  these  walls  contain  thousands  of  square  feet  of  plane 
surface  upon  which  are  depicted  various  figures.  At  one  point  may  be 
seen  the  figures  of  a  woman,  a  horse,  and  a  pig,  forming  a  distinct 
group.  At  another  an  eagle  perched,  true  to  this  bird's  instinct,  high 
upon  the  cliffs.  At  other  points,  by  the  shelling  off  of  the  stone  sur 
face,  crypts  have  been  formed  in  the  walls  in  which  may  be  seen  other 
forms  seemingly  sculptured.  Nature  seems  to  have  made  of  this 
canyon  an  art  gallery  of  stupendous  proportions.  The  walls  stand 
just  far  enough  away  to  afford  the  proper  perspective;  the  waterfalls 
seem  to  have  been  placed  to  the  best  advantage;  and  the  trees  cling 
to  the  rocky  ledges  lust  at  the  right  places  to  produce  the  best  effects. 

It  is  stated  that  the  views  into  the  canyon  from  its  rim  are  exceeded 
in  beauty  and  grandeur  only  by  the  similar  views  into  the  Grand 
Canyon  of  the  Colorado. 

The  monument  can  best  be  reached  by  the  Salt  Lake  route,  leaving 
the  train  at  "Lund  in  the  western  part  of  Iron  County,  and  thence 
proceeding  by  auto  stage  to  Hurricane,  via  Cedar  City.  From  Lund 
to  Hurricarie,  a  distance  of  about  85  miles,  is  an  excellent  auto  road 
in  summer.  Hurricane  can  also  be  reached  from  Salt  Lake  City  by 
auto  via  FiUmore,  Beaver,  Parowan,  and  Cedar  City.  At  Hurricane 
teams  may  be  secured  to  complete  the  trip,  either  by  vehicle  or 
horseback.  This  is  the  best  road,  as  the  road  is  excellent  to  within 
about  20  miles  of  the  monument,  whereas  by  the  Marysvale- 
Panguitch  route  it  is  necessary  to  travel  over  at  least  55  miles  of 
bad  road.  When  the  State  highway  to  the  Grand  Canyon  of  the 
Colorado  River  shall  have  been  completed  this  monument  will  be 
only  about  25  miles  from  the  main  road  from  Salt  Lake  to  the  Grand 
Canyon.  The  National  Park  Transportation  and  Camping  Co.,  W.W. 
Wylie,  president,  will  operate  permanent  camps  in  the  monument, 


30 


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Monument  Boundary 


Mukuntuweap  National  Monument,  Utah,  embracing  sees.  3,  4,  5,  6,  8,  9,  10,  14,  15,  16,  21,  22,  23,  26,  27, 
2s,  :«,  and  34,  T.  40  S.,  R.  10  W.,  and  all  of  the  Mukuntuweap  C'anyon  in  T.  41  S.,  It.  10  W.,  Salt  Lake 
meridian;  created  July  31, 1909. 


31 

and  an  automobile  and  transportation  line  thereto  from  Lund,  Utah. 
Saddle  horses  will  also  be  available. 

Those  desiring  to  make  the  trip  by  automobile  may  obtain  detailed 
and  definite  information  concerning  roads,  hotels,  oil,  gasoline,  routes, 
distances,  etc.,  by  writing  the  " Publicity  Bureau,  Commercial  Club, 
Salt  Lake  City,"  or  from  the  Utah  Automobile  Association,  at  Salt 
Lake  City. 

The  deficiency  appropriation  act  approved  September  8,  1916, 
made  an  appropriation,  in  the  following  terms: 

For  a  proportionate  share  of  the  amount  required  to  construct  an  interstate  wagon 
road  or  highway  through  the  Mukuntuweap  National  Monument,  Utah,  approxi 
mately  fifteen  miles,  §15,000. 

Under  the  terms  of  this  act  road  construction  is  now  under  way 
within  the  monument,  and  the  State  of  Utah  is  rebuilding  the  road 
leading  from  Toquerville  and  Hurricane  to  the  monument.  It  is 
expected  that  the  entire  route  will  be  completed  and  in  good  con 
dition  for  auto  travel  in  the  summer  of  1917. 

NATURAL  BRIDGES  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

This  monument  is  located  in  the  vicinity  of  Bluff,  San  Juan  County, 
in  the  extreme  southeastern  portion  of  Utah,  and  was  created  origi 
nally  by  presidential  proclamation  of  April  16,  1908.  It  embraces 
three  separate  tracts  of  land,  the  largest  containing  the  three  great 
natural  bridges,  viz:  The  Sipapu,  known  locally  as  the  Augusta 
Bridge;  the  Kachina,  called  the  Caroline;  and  the  Owachomo,  given 
the  local  name  of  the  Little  Bridge.1  These  bridges  were  discovered 
by  Emery  Knowles  in  1895. 

A  second  proclamation,  issued  by  the  President  September  25,  1909, 
includes,  besides  the  three  bridges  originally  reserved,  a  much  more 
extended  territory,  but  within  which,  along  the  walls  of  the  canyons 
ill  the  vicinity  of  the  bridges,  are  found  many  prehistoric  ruins  of 
cavern  and  cliff  dwellings.  There  are  also  two  cavern  springs  con 
taining  some  prehistoric  ruins,  which  are  located  approximately  13 
and  19  miles  southeast  of  the  bridges,  respectively.  These  cavern 
springs,  included  within  the  Natural  Bridges  Monument,  are  located 
upon  the  ancient  and  only  trail  to  the  bridges  from  the  south,  and 
are  important  way  stations  in  the  desert  surrounding  this  monument. 
They  are  believed  to  have  been  originally  excavated  and  used  by  the 
prehistoric  inhabitants  of  the  vicinity. 

A  third  proclamation,  dated  February  11,  1916,  definitely  fixes  the 
location  of  the  objects  of  interest  within  the  monument,  as  the 
result  of  a  resurvey  and  relocation  with  reference  to  a  recently 
established  corner  of  the  public-land  surveys. 

In  order  to  reach  the  various  points  of  interest  it  is  necessary  to 
use  a  pack  train,  with  guides  and  complete  camp  outfit.  The  natural 
bridges  spring  from  the  high  walls  of  White  Canyon,  through  which 
part  of  the  journey  is  taken,  and  are  the  result  of  remarkable  and 
eccentric  stream  erosion.  These  bridges  are  understood  to  be 

1  Sipapu  is  said  to  mean  "gate  of  heaven";  Kachina,  "guardian  spirit";  and  Owachomo,  "rook  mound." 
The  English  names  are  more  prosaic.  The  Augusta  Bridge  was  named  in  honor  of  the  wife  of  Horace  J. 
Long,  a  mining  engineer  who,  in  company  with  James  Scorup,  a  cattleman,  visited  the  bridges  in  March, 
1903;  the  Caroline  Bridge  in  honor  of  Mrs.  James  Scorup:  and  the  Little  Bridge,  sometimes  known  as  the 
Edwin  Bridge,  in  honor  of  Col.  Edwin  F.  Holmes  of  Salt  Lake  City,  who  equipped  an  expedition  which 
visited  the  region  in  1906  and  obtained  measurements,  photographs,  and  sketches  of  the  bridges. 


32 


among  the  largest  examples  of  their  kind,  the  greatest  of  the  three 
having  a  height  of  222  feet  and  being  65  feet  thick  at  the  top  of  the 
arch.  The  arch  is  28  feet  wide,  the  span  is  261  feet,  and  the  height 
of  span  157  feet.  The  other  two  bridges  are  only  a  little  smaller. 
All  three  are  within  a  space  of  about  5  miles. 

There  are  two  routes  by  which  this  monument  may  be  reached, 
one  by  way  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  detraining  at 
Dolores,  Colo.,  thence  by  team  to  Bluff,  Utah,  via  McElmo,  Colo., 
and  Aneth,  Utah.  This"  necessitates  travel  .over  a  fairly  good  road 


'09' IV. , 


$.S2°4l'£.  58.70  3. 

Cigarette  Spring  £apei 

T.40S.R.I9E. 


-^x^xxxx.   Monument  Boundary 

Natural  Bridges  National  Monument,  Utah,  embracing  a  subtriangular  tract,  one  small  tract  in  nnsur- 
veyed  area  and  one  tract  in  sees.  1  and  2,  T.  40  S.,  R.  19  E.,  Salt  Lake  Meridian;  created  April  16, 1908, 
boundaries  modified  as  above  September  25,  1909. 

for  a  distance  of  approximately  80  miles  before  Bluff,  Utah,  is  reached. 
The  bridges  are  about  45  miles  northwest  of  Bluff,  thus  making  a 
total  mileage  to  be  traveled  by  horse  of  about  125  miles.  The  springs 
lie  between  Bluff  and  the  bridges  and  can  be  visited  without  making 
any  side  trips.  Most  of  this  route  may  be  traveled  by  auto — from 
Dolores,  Colo.,  to  Bluff,  Utah.  Pack  animals  and  guides  are  neces 
sary  from  Bluff  to  the  monument. 

^  The  second  route  may  be  taken  by  leaving  the  Denver  &•  Rio 
Grande  Railroad  at  Thompsons  Station,  Utah,  thence  by  stage  or 


33 

team  to  Moab  and  Monticello,  Utah,  a  distance  of  about  95  miles; 
thence  to  the  monument  (bridges),  a  distance  of  approximately  50 
or  60  miles.  At  Monticello  tourists  should  outfit  for  the  trip  to  the 
bridges.  Competent  guides,  with  pack  horses,  etc.,  including  all 
necessary  equipment,  may  be  hired  there  at  reasonable  figures.  This 
second  route  is  the  better,  as  roads  and  trails  are  better  than  from 
any  other  point. 

Tourists  coming  in  through  Colorado  may,  after  reaching  Bluff, 
Utah,  go  north  via  Grayson  to  Monticello,  a  distance  of  about  50 
miles,  and  proceed  to  the  bridges  from  the  latter  point.  As  stated, 
Monticello  is  the  best  outfitting  point  in  that  section  of  the  country 
and  the  best  guides  are  to  be  found  there. 

NAVAJO  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

The  Navajo  National  Monument,  Ariz.,  as  originally  created  by 
proclamation  of  March  20,  1909,  embraced  approximately  600  acres 
within  the  Navajo  Indian  Reservation,  which  was  reserved  tenta 
tively  and  with  a  view  to  reduction  to  such  small  tract  or  tracts  as 
might  thereafter  be  found  to  contain  valuable  prehistoric  pueblo  or 
cliff  dwellings,  when  the  extent  of  the  same  could  be  determined  by  an 
examination  on  the  ground  and  their  locus  definitely  fixed  by  traverse 
lines  connecting  them  with  some  corner  of  the  public  survey.  Both 
of  these  conditions  having  been  fulfilled,  the  monument  was  reduced 
by  proclamation  dated  March  1-1,  1912,  to  three  small  tracts  aggre 
gating  360  acres.  Within  two  of  these  tracts  are  located,  respec 
tively,  two  interesting  and  extensive  pueblo  or  cliff-dwelling  ruins 
in  a  good  state  of  preservation  and  known  as  Betata  Kin  and  Keet 
Seel,  and  a  third  cliff-dwelling  ruin  called  Inscription  House. 

The  new  boundaries  of  the  Navajo  National  Monument  under  the 
latter  proclamation  are  shown  in  figure  2. 

The  Betata  Kin  ruin  gets  its  name  from  the  fact  that  the  build 
ings  are  situated  on  the  steep  sloping  sides  of  a  cliff,  Betata  Kin  being 
the  Navajo  words  signifying  sidehill  house."  They  were  found 
August  8,  1908,  by  J.  W.  Wetherill  and  Prof.  Byron  Cummings,  a 
Navajo  Indian  having  informed  Mrs.  Wetherill  of  their  existence. 

This  ruin  is  situated  at  an  elevation  of  7,000  feet,  in  a  crescent- 
shaped  cavity  600  feet  wide  by  350  feet  high,  in  the  side  of  a  soft 
red  sandstone  cliff  which  forms  the  walls  of  a  small  canyon.  The 
location  is  about  2  miles  west  of  Laguna  Creek,  8  miles  north  of 
Marsh  Pass,  and  18  miles  northwest  of  Kayenta,  a  post  office  and 
trading  post  on  the  Navajo  Indian  Reservation. 

An  inspection  of  the  walls  of  the  ruin  indicates  that  there  were 
originally  106  houses  or  rooms.  The  walls  of  51  rooms  are  now 
standing,  17  of  which  have  well-preserved  roofs.  The  walls  of  the 
houses  are  constructed  of  sandstone  blocks,  held  together  with  mud 
and  mortar.  The  roofs  are  made  of  spruce  timbers,  placed  crosswise 
to  form  joists,  the  ends  projecting  through  the  outer  walls.  Smaller 
poles  are  placed  at  right  angles  with  these  and  then  covered  with  a 
thatch  of  willows  and  mud,  which  forms  the  roof.  Inside,  the  floors 
are  plastered  with  mud;  and  in  nearly  every  room  there  is  a  small 
circular  or  square  hole  about  9  inches  deep,  which  was  evidently 
used  for  a  fireplace0  The  rooms  have  doorways  or  openings  in  the 
84490°— 17 5 


34 


roofs  and  sides,  the  largest  opening  noted  being  18  by  30  inches. 
The  average  size  of  the  rooms  is  6  by  6  by  6  feet. 

The  Keet  Seel  (Navajo  for  " broken  pottery")  ruins  were  discov 
ered  in  March,  1894,  by  Richard  Wetherill.  They  are  situated  at 
an  elevation  of  7,100  feet,  in  a  crescent-shaped  cave  400  feet  long 
by  150  feet  high,  near  the  base  of  a  soft  red  sandstone  cliff  on  the 


f 


/60Acre's    2 


Mon  um  en  /  Bo  un  ddrv 


Navajo  National  Monument,  Arir.,  containing  360  acres,  embracing  the  Keet  Reel  and  Betata  Kin  ruins, 
located  in  two  small  tracts  of  1UO  acres  each,  along  1  aguna  (  reek,  and  Inscription  House  ruins,  on  Navajo 
Creek,  in  a  40-acre  tract,  all  within  the  Navajo  Indian  Reservation;  originally  created  Mar.  20,  1909, 
boundaries  modified  as  above  Mar.  14,  1912. 

west  side  of  Laguna  Creek,   12  miles  north  of  Marsh  Pass  and  24 
miles  northwest  of  Kayenta. 

These  ruins  are  very  much  similar  in  construction  to  the  Betata 
Kin  Ruins,  but  are  in  a  much  better  state  of  preservation.  This  is 
doubtless  due  to  the  fact  that  the  overhanging  cliffs  protect  the 
buildings  from  the  action  of  storms.  In  the  ruins  there  are  several 
two-story  buildings  and  two  circular-shaped  rooms.  There  are  47 
rooms  with  standing  walls,  the  roofs  having  fallen  in,  and  56  rooms 


35 


coverecPover'with  well-preserved  roofs.  The  construction  of  the 
roofs  in  these  buildings  is  similar  to  those  in  the  Betata  Kin  Ruins. 
The  rooms  are  about  7  by  7  by  5  or  6  feet  high.  The  openings  or 
doorways  are  18  inches  by  30  inches,  set  about  2  feet  from  the  floor 
of  the  structure. 

The  ruins  are  difficult  to  reach,  it  being  necessary  to  scale  a  steep 
sandstone  cliff  for  a  distance  of  30  feet  in  order  to  reach  the  base  of 
the  ruins. 

Inscription  House  Ruin  is  located  on  Navajo  Creek,  about  20  miles 
west  of  the  Betata  Kin  Ruin.  This  ruin  is  regarded  as  extraordinary, 


/tNO  I  AN    RESERVA 

Jin  i 
^ 


Navajo  National  Monument,  Ark.,  embracing  all  cliff-dwelling  and  pueblo  ruins  between  the  parallel  of 
latitude  36°  30'  and  37°  north  and  longitude  110°  and  110°  45'  west  from  Greenwich,  with  40  acres  of  land 
in  square  form  around  each  of  said  ruins,  as  originally  created  Mar.  20,  1909. 

not  only  because  of  its  good  state  of  preservation,  but  because  of 
the  fact  that  upon  the  walls  of  its  rooms  are  found  inscriptions 
written  in  Spanish  by  early  explorers  and  plainly  dated  1661.  It 
is  located  about  half  way  up  the  side  of  a  steep  cliff  in  a  crescent- 
shaped  niche  or  cave  15  to  50  feet  in  depth  by  500  feet  in  length 
and  about  75  feet  in  height.  There  is  very  little  sheltering  cliff  over 
the  ruins,  and  they  are  in  places  easily  reached  by  storms. 

These  ruins  differ  from  the  other  ruins  in  the  material  used  in 
their  construction.  The  walls  are  constructed  of  mud  bricks  made  by 
rolling  bunches  of  straw  in  mud  and  then  molding  into  shape.  The 
bricks  are  about  4  inches  square  by  about  a  foot  or  more  in  length 


36 

and  arc  laid  into  the  walls  with  mud  mortar.  The  walls  thus  formed 
are  tough  and  rigid  and  are  free  from  cracks.  Several  of  the  rooms 
are  made  of  reeds  and  tules,  set  vertical  and  plastered  over  and  filled 
in  with  mud.  The  roofs  of  the  buildings  are  made  of  the  mud  bricks 
placed  on  a  framework  of  small  poles  covered  over  with  reeds  and 
tules.  There  are  64  rooms,  30  of  which  are  roofed  over.  The  rooms 
are  small  and  mostly  single  story.  Two  of  the  buildings  are  two 
stories  high.  The  doorways  are  small  and  are  built  with  a  small 
niche  at  the  bottom. 

The  ruins  can  be  reached  only  by  saddle  horse  and  pack  outfit  over 
a  very  rough  trail  from  Marsh  Pass  or  Kayenta.  Kayenta  can  be 
reached  by  team  from  Flagstaff,  Ariz.,  via  Tuba,  or  from  Gallup, 
N.  Mex.,  either  point  being  about  125  miles  distant.  At  Kayenta 
pack  horses,  guides,  and  camp  outfits  can  be  secured  to  make  a  trip 
to  the  ruins,  two  or  three  days  being  required  to  visit  the  Betata 
Kin  and  Keet  Seel  Ruins,  and  at  least  three  days  more  to  visit  the 
Inscription  House  Ruin.  The  Inscription  House  Ruin  can  best  be 
reached  from  Tuba,  via  Red  Lake,  a  distance  of  about  60  miles,  over 
a  rough  mountain  trail.  The  Santa  Fe  Railway  is  the  nearest  and 
most  accessible  railroad  from  which  to  reach  the  ruins. 

An  interesting  description  of  this  national  monument  and  vicinity 
is  contained  in  Bulletin  No.  50  of  the  Bureau  of  American  Ethnology, 
which  comprises  results  of  explorations  by  Dr.  Jesse  Walter  Fewkes, 
of  that  bureau,  in  1909  and  1910. 

These  ruins  are  in  an  excellent  state  of  preservation,  their  condition 
not  having  changed  in  the  past  35  years.  The  houses  are  protected 
from  the  elements  by  the  overhanging  cliffs,  and  deterioration  is  very 
slow.  No  vandalism  has  occurred,  as  practically  the  only  inhabitants 
in  the  vicinity  are  Indians,  who  refrain  from  molestation  of  the  ruins 
in  any  manner. 

Mr.  John  Wetherill,  of  Kayenta,  is  custodian  of  this  monument, 
under  appointment  by  the  Department  of  the  Interior  dated  April  9, 
1909. 

In  the  Indian  appropriation  act  approved  May  18,  1916,  the  fol 
lowing  appropriation  was  made  for  the  benefit  of  this  monument: 

For  preservation  and  repair  of  prehistoric  pueblo  ruins  and  cliff  dwellings,  under 
supervision  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  Navajo  National  Monument,  Arizona, 
$3,000. 

PAPAGO  SAGUARO  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

This  monument  was  created  by  proclamation  of  January  31,  1914, 
and  embraces  approximately  2,050  acres  of  rocky  and  desert  land  in 
Maricopa  County,  about  9, miles  east  of  Phoenix,  Ariz.  Within  the 
tract  is  found  a  splendid  collection  of  characteristic  desert  flora, 
including  many  striking  examples  of  giant  cactus  (saguaro)  and  many 
other  interesting  species  of  cacti,  such  as  the  prickly  pear,  Cholla, 
etc.,  as  well  as  fine  examples  of  the  yucca  palm,  all  of  which  are  of 
great  scientific  interest  and  grow  in  tnis  monument  to  great  size  and 
perfection.  The  saguaro  is  that  variety  of  cactus  which  grows  in  a 
cylindrical  form  to  a  height  of  30  or  35  feet,  with  from  one  to  a 
dozen  branches  of  the  same  character  from  the  main  stalk,  generally 
near  the  top.  There  arc  also  within  the  tract  prehistoric  pictographs 
which  are  found  upon  the  faces  of  the  rocks,  adding  to  the  interest 
of  the  reservation  and  to  its  ethnological  and  archaeological  value. 
Through  the  center  of  the  tract,  running  northwest  and  southeast,  is  a 


37 

ridge  of  low  hills  rising  from  the  flat  desert  to  a  height  of  150  to  200 
feet.  The  rocks  in  the  ridge  have  been  worn  considerably  by  the  ele 
ments,  resulting  in  numerous  caves  and  a  few  openings  extending 
entirely  through  the  rocks.  One  of  these  openings,  known  locally  as 
"Hole-in-the-rock,"  is  an  aperture  some  15  feet  high  and  25  feet  long 
with  an  amphitheater  approach  to  the  hole  on  each  side.  These 
approach  rooms  are  about  30  feet  square,  with  the  overhanging  rock 
for  a  roof  in  each  case.  The  monument  is  visited  by  several  thousand 


Boundary  of  Monument 


Papago  Saguaro  National  Monument,  Ariz.,  embracing  the  SE.  J  of  sec.  33,  T.  2  N.,  R.  4  E.;  W.  i  of  W.  J 
sec.  3,  all  sec.  4,  XE.  J  and  E.  J  of  SE.  J,  sec.  5,  W.  i  and  W.  £  SE.  J  sec.  10,  N.  £  N.  J  SE.  J  and  NE.  J 
of  S  W.  i  sec.  9,  T.  1  N.,  R.  4  E.,  all  east  of  Gila  and  Salt  River  meridian,  containing  2,850.43  acres. 

people  each  year  as  a  picnic  ground,  as  it  is  readily  reached  by  auto 
mobile  or  team,  over  good  roads,  from  Phoenix  or  Tempe,  Ariz., 
distant  respectively  9  and  3  miles.  Phoenix  is  reached  by  rail  by  the 
Santa  Fe,  Prescott  &  Phoenix  Railroad,  a  branch  of  the  main  line  of 
the  Santa  Fe  Railway  from  Ash  Fork,  Ariz.  Phoenix  and  Tempe 
are  also  reached  by  the  Arizona  &  Eastern  Railroad,  which  branches 
from  the  main  line  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway  at  Maricopa, 
•Ariz.  The  monument  is  well  located  to  be  viewed  in  connection  with 
a  trip  over  the  great  irrigation  system  of  the  Salt  River  Valley, 
better  known  as  the  Roosevelt  project  of  the  Reclamation  Service, 


38 

PETRIFIED  FOREST  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

The  Petrified  Forest  of  Arizona  lies  in  the  area  between  the  Little 
Colorado  River  and  the  Rio  Puerco,  15  miles  east  of  their  junction, 
in  Navajo  and  Apache  Counties.  It  was  originally  established  as 
a  national  monument  by  proclamation  of  December  8,  1906,  and  its 
boundaries  were  subsequently  modified  by  proclamation  of  July  31, 
19 II.1  This  area  is  of  great  interest  because  of  the  abundance  of 
petrified  coniferous  trees,  as  well  as  its  scenic  features.  The  trees  lie 
scattered  about  in  great  profusion;  none,  however,  stands  erect  in  its 
original  place  of  growth,  as  do  'many  of  the  petrified  trees  in  the  Yel 
lowstone  National  Park.  The  trees  probably  at  one  time  grew  beside 
an  inland  sea;  after  falling  they  became  waterlogged,  and  during 
decomposition  the  cell  structure  of  the  wood  was  entirely  replaced 
by  silica  derived  from  sandstone  in  the  surrounding  land.  Over  a 
greater  part  of  the  entire  area  trees  lie  scattered  in  all  conceivable 
positions  and  in  fragments  of  all  sizes.  The  localities  where  the  pet 
rified  trees  are  found  are  known  as  the  First  Forest,  Second  Forest, 
and  Rainbow  Forest. 

The  First  Forest  lies  6  miles  south  of  Adamana,  a  station  on  the 
Santa  Fe  Pacific  Railway.  In  this  forest  there  are  not  as  many  large 
tree  trunks  as  in  the  other  forests,  the  chief  object  of  interest  and 

Eerhaps  the  most  prominent  of  all  the  scenic  features  of  the  region 
eing  the  well-known  Natural  Bridge,  consisting  of  a  great  petrified 
tree  trunk  60  feet  long  spanning  a  canyon  45  feet  in  width,  and  form 
ing  a  footbridge  over  which  anyone  may  easily  pass.  The  ends  of 
the  tree  trunk  are  embedded  in  the  surrounding  sandstone,  the  canyon 
evidently  having  been  formed  after  the  tree  had  silicified. 

The  Second  Forest  lies  about  2|  miles  south  of  the  First  Forest 
and  contains  about  2,000  acres  covered  with  fragments  of  petrified 
wood  and  tree  trunks  up  to  4  feet  in  diameter.  The  wood  is  all 
highly  colored  and  beautiful  specimens  are  in  abundance. 

The  third  or  Rainbow  Forest  lies  about  13  miles  south  of  Adamana 
and  18  miles  southeast  of  Holbrook,  Ariz.,  also  on  the  Santa  Fe  Rail 
way.  In  this  forest  the  tree  trunks  are  larger  than  elsewhere,  more 
numerous,  and  less  broken.  There  are  in  this  vicinity  several  hun 
dred  whole  trees,  some  of  which  are  more  than  200  feet  long,  partially 
embedded  in  the  ground.  The  color  of  the  wood  is  deeper  and  more 
striking  than  in  the  other  localities.  The  main  traveled  road  from 
Holbrook  to  St.  Johns  passes  through  this  forest. 

The  First  and  Second  Forests  are  reached  by  team  and  wagon  from 
Adamana.  The  Third  Forest  can  be  reached  from  Adamana,  but  it 
is  a  long  drive  and  is  seldom  made;  the  better  method  is  by  either 
team  or  automobile  from  Holbrook.  The  roads  to  the  First  and 
Second  Forests  from  Holbrook  are  too  sandy  for  automobile  travel 
and  the  distance  is  too  great  to  make  the  trip  comfortably  by  team. 

Prof.  Lester  F.  Ward,  of  the  Geological  Survey,  has  stated  that — 

There  is  no  other  petrified  forest  in  which  the  wood  assumes  so  many  varied  and 
interesting  forms  and  colors,  and  it  is  these  that  present  the  chief  attraction  for  the 
general  public.  The  state  of  mineralization  in  which  much  of  this  wood  exists  almost 

1  In  1895  the  Legislature  of  Arizona  passed  a  memorial  to  Congress  recommending  the  creation  of  the 
Petrified  Forest  National  Park.  Bills  to  establish  such  a  park  were  introduced  by  Hon.  John  F.  Lacey 
in  the  Fifty-sixth  Congress  on  Mar.  16, 1900  (H.  R.  9634)  in  the  Fifty-seventh  Congress  on  Jan.  2, 1902  (H.  R. 
8326),  in  the  Fifty-eighth  Congress  on  Nov.  13,  1903  (H.  R.  2529),  and  in  the  Fifty-ninth  Congress  on  Dec.* 
18.  1905  (H.  R.  8966).  In  each  case  the  bill  was  promptly  passed  by  the  House  but  failed  in  the  Senate. 
Finally  the  desired  object  was  attained  in  190(1,  shortly  after  the  passage  of  the  National  Monuments  act, 
when  the  forest  was  set  aside  as  the  fourth  reservation  under  the  new  law. 


39 

places  them  among  the  gems  or  precious  stones.  Not  only  are  chalcedony,  opals, 
and  agates  found  among  them,  but  many  approach  the  condition  of  jasper  and  onyx. 
The  degree  of  hardness  attained  by  them  is  such  that  they  are  said  to  make  an  excellent 
quality  of  emery. 

Dr.  Walter  Hough,  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  who  visited 
this  monument,  states  that— 

In  the  celebrated  Petrified  Forest,  which  is  some  18  miles  from  Holbrook,  Ariz., 
on  the  picturesque  Santa  Fe  Railroad,  there  are  ruins  of  several  ancient  Indian  vil- 

*'""  Reservation  Boundary  —  —  County  Boundary  ^2b  Collecting  Grounds 


'etrmed  Forest  National  Monument,  Ariz.,  embracing  sees.  12,  11,  and  12  and  E.  \  sees.  3  and  10;  T.  16 
N.,  R.  23  E.;  sees.  4  to  9  and  W.  £  sees.  3  and  10,  T.  16  N.,  R.  24  E.;  sees.  34,  35,  36,  T.  17  N.,  R.  23  E., 
sees.  3  to  10, 15  to  22,  27  to 33,  and  W.  1  sees.  2, 11, 14,  23,  26,  T.  17  N.,  R.  24  E.,  Gila  and  Salt  River  merid 
ian,  containing  40.04  square  miles,  originally  created  December  8,  1906,  boundaries  modified  as  above 
July  31, 1911. 


These  villages  are  small,  in  some  cases  having  merely  a  few  houses,  but  what 
gives  them  a  peculiar  interest  is  that  they  were  built  of  logs  of  beautiful  fossil  wood. 
The  prehistoric  dwellers  of  the  land  selected  cylinders  of  uniform  size,  which 
were  seemingly  determined  by  the  carrying  strength  of  a  man.  It  is  probable  that 
prehistoric  builders  never  chose  more  beautiful  stones  for  the  construction  of  their 
habitations  than  the  trunks  of  the  trees  which  flourished  ages  before  man  appeared 
on  the  earth. 

This  wood  agate  also  furnished  material  for  stone  hammers,  arrowheads,  and  knives, 
which  are  often  found  in  ruins  hundreds  of  miles  from  the  forest. 


r  f}  t^  foWefif       *x. 

Mp*/-*  /       ^*yl,«*     •^""*|c<,* 

^V.  /  ^  WAh,****^ 

O»  ^ 


•&#?*•*. 


\         N.D/J 


S.D, 


?«e* 


/      "EV 

''{far,  \  •  > 


Map  showing  national  parks  and  national  monuments  in  the  continental  United  States.    There  are  two  nati 

park 
84490°-17.    (Pages  40-41.) 


in  Alaska— the  Sitka  and  Old  Kasaan;  one  national  park  in  Alaska— the  Mount  McKinley— and  one  national 


42 

Mr.  Chester  B.  Campbell,  custodian  of  the  monument  since  January 
16,  1913,  reports  that  while  the  general  condition  of  the  monument 
is  good,  the  natural  bridge  has  become  badly  cracked  and  requires 
support,  which  could  best  be  effected  by  installing  a  steel  beam  run 
ning  the  entire  length  of  the  bridge.  Arrangements  are  now  in 
progress  for  making  this  repair. 

PINNACLES  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

This  national  monument,  created  by  proclamation  of  January  16, 
1908,  embraces  2,091.21  acres  of  land  in  San  Benito  County,  Cal.,  of 
which  approximately  1,900  acres  is  under  governmental  control,  a 
small  portion  having  been  patented  to  private  ownership  prior  to 
creation  of  the  monument. 

The  name  is  derived  from  the  spirelike  formations  arising  from 
600  to  1,000  feet  from  the  floor  of  the  canyon,  forming  a  landmark 


19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

30 

29 

28 

27 

26 

25 

31 

32 

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4 

-H-  - 

-t  - 

2 

1 

•  •+•  - 

*<• 

7 

8 

9 

+  • 

+  - 

II 

12 

-  -r  - 

18 

17 

16 

15 

IV 

13 

**, 

r 

»  -7  rr 

T.  16  St 


T.I7S, 


Pinnacles  National  Monument,  C'al.;  embraces  parts  of  Tps.  16  and  17  S.,  R.  7  E.,  M.  D.  M.:  created  January 

16, 1908. 

visible  many  miles  in  every  direction.  Many  of  the  rocks  are  so 
precipitous  that  they  can  not  be  scaled.  A  series  of  caves,  opening 
one  into  the  other,  lie  under  each  of  the  groups  of  rock.  These  caves 
vary  greatly  in  size,  one  in  particular,  known  as  the  Banquet  Hall, 
being  about  100  feet  square  with  a  ceiling  30  feet  high.  The  caves 
are  entered  through  narrow  canyons  with  perpendicular  rock  walls 
and  overhanging  bowlders.  One  huge  stone,  called  the  Temple  Rock, 
is  almost  cubical  in  form.  It  stands  alone  in  the  bottom  of  the 
canyon  and  its  walls  rise  perpendicularly  to  a  height  of  over  200 
feet.  There  are  also  several  specimens  of  "  balancing  Crocks  "  in  each 
of  the  groups.  The  pinnacles,  domes,  caves,  and  subterranean  pas 
sages  of  the  monument  are  awe-inspiring  on  close  inspection,  and  are 
well  worth  a  visit  by  tourists  and  lovers  of  nature  in  its  primitive 
state. 

There  are  two  groups  of  the  so-called  Pinnacles  Rocks,  known 
locally  as  the  Big  Pinnacles  and  the  Little  Pinnacles.     The  general 


43 

characteristics  of  the  two  groups  are  similar.  Each  covers  an  area 
of  about  160  acres  very  irregular  in  outline.  There  are  springs  of 
good  water  in  what  are  known  as  the  Chalone  and  Bear  Creek  gorges. 
The  wild  life  on  this  reservation  is  protected  by  special  State  laws. 
In  1909  California  made  the  monument  a  State  game  perserve  (ch. 
428)  and  more  recently  has  defined  it  as  game  and  fish  district  No.  25 
(Laws,  1915,  ch.  379),  in  which  all  hunting  is  prohibited. 

There  are  no  stage  lines  to  the  monument.  The  best  means  of 
reaching  the  monument  are  by  private  conveyance  over  private  roads 
from  either  Soledad  or  Gonzales,  in  Monterey  County,  Cal.,  stations 
on  the  main  line  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Kailway  distant,  respec 
tively,  12  and  14  miles;  or  from  Hollister,  in  San  Benito  County  (also 
on  the  Southern  Pacific),  distant  35  miles.  There  is  a  good  public 
highway  from  Hollister  to  within  about  6  miles  of  the  monument, 


Monument  Boundary 


Rainbow  Bridge  National  Monument,  Utah,  embracing  160  acres  of  land  in  square  form,  the  southeast 
corner  of  which  bears  from  one  hundred  and  seventy-ninth  mile  corner  on  the  Utah  and  Arizona  boundary 
N.  60°  25'  13"  W.  7  miles  67.87  chains  distant;  created  May  30, 1910. 

from  which  a  private  road  runs  through  several  ranches  for  about 
4  miles  that  is  passable  for  automobiles.  Between  the  end  of  the 
private  road  and  the  main  gorge  of  the  monument  a  road  passable 
for  teams  leads  up  the  bed  of  Chalone  Creek.  The  route  from  Hol 
lister  is  the  most  direct,  as  it  leads  to  the  east  side  of  the  pinnacles, 
wrhere  the  gorges  and  caves  are  easily  accessible,  while  the  routes  from 
Soledad  or  Gonzales  lead  to  the  west  side  and  necessitate  a  journey, 
either  by  foot  or  saddle  horse,  to  the  eastern  side  to  reach  the  caves 
and  gorges. 

RAINBOW  BRIDGE  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

This  natural  bridge  is  located  within  the  Navajo  Indian  Reserva 
tion,  near  the  southern  boundary  of  Utah,  a  few  miles  northwest 
from  Navajo  Mountain,  a  well-known  peak  and  landmark,  and  spans 


44 

a  canyon  and  small  stream  which  drains  the  northwestern  slopes  of 
this  peak,  and  is  of  great  scientific  interest  as  an  example  of  eccentric 
stream  erosion.  Among  the  known  extraordinary  natural  bridges  of 
the  world,  this  bridge  is  unique  in  that  it  is  not  only  a  symmetrical 
arch  below  but  presents  also  a  curved  surface  above,  thus  presenting, 
roughly,  the  character  of  the  rainbow,  for  which  it  is  named.  Its 
height  above  the  surface  of  the  water  is  309  feet  and  its  span  is  278 
feet. 

The  existence  of  this  natural  wonder  was  first  disclosed  to  William 
B.  Douglass,  an  examiner  of  survevs  of  the  General  Land  Office,  on 
August  14,  1909,  by  a  Piute  Indian,  called  "  Mike's  boy/'  later 
"Jim, ';  who  was  employed  in  connection  with  the  survey  of  the 
natural  bridges  in  White  Canyon,  Utah. 

The  best  and  easiest  way  in  which  to  reach  the  Rainbow  Bridge 
National  Monument  is  to  outfit  at  Monticello,  thence  travel  to  the 
Natural  Bridges  Monument,  thence  south  and  west  down  the  Grand 
Gulch  and  the  San  Juan  River.  In  order  to  reach  Monticello  tourists 
should  leave  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad  at  Thompsons, 
Utah.  This  will  necessitate  travel  by  team  and  pack  outfit  of  220 
miles,  approximately.  While  this  may  seem  a  very  long  trip,  yet 
the  scenery,  cliff  dwellings,  prehistoric  caves,  vast  canyons,  etc., 
located  between  the  Natural  Bridges  and  the  Rainbow  Bridge  Monu 
ment  are  worth  the  labor,  time,  and  money  expended  in  visiting  them. 

SIETJR  DE  MONTS  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

This  reservation,  approximately  5,000  acres  in  extent,  was  con 
stituted  by  presidential  proclamation  dated  July  8,  1916,  from  lands 
donated  to  the  Government  by  the  owners,  the  Hancock  County 
Trustees  of  Public  Reservations,  represented  in  the  transaction  by 
Mr.  George  B.  Dorr,  who  has  since  been  appointed  custodian  of  the 
monument.  The  deed  of  gift  conveying  this  tract  was  without 
restriction  other  than  the  stipulation  that  a  national  monument 
should  be  established  thereon.  At  request  of  the  donors  the  name 
Sieur  de  Monts  National  Monument  was  given. 

This  tract  embraces  the  summit  of  Mount  Desert  Island,  Me.,  and 
about  5,000  acres  of  contiguous  territory,  rugged,  partly  wooded, 
and  picturesque  in  the  extreme;  and  is  of  great  scientific  interest  in 
that  its  lofty  summits,  gorges,  and  drainage  areas  show  in  enduring 
granite  the  marks  of  the  glacial  trowel.  Its  fauna  and  flora  are  also 
of  exceptional  scientific  interest  and  importance.  The  gift  was  made 
not  alone  for  the  purpose  of  preserving  these  features  lor  public  use 
and  enjoyment,  but  to  commemorate  the  discovery  of  Mount  Desert 
Island  by  Samuel  de  Champlain,  who,  as  the  trusted  lieutenant  of 
Sieur  de  Monts,1  first  landed  on  this  island  while  exploring  the  present 
Maine  coast  in  September,  1604. 

The  monument  can  readily  be  reached  from  Bar  Harbor,  Me., 
or  other  coast  resorts  upon  Mount  Desert  Island. 

i  Pierre  de  C.uast,  Sieur  de  Monts  1500-1611,  the  patron  of  Champlain,  was  governor  of  Pons,  France, 
and  was  commissioned  by  Henry  IV  of  France  to  explore  and  establish  colonies  in  America.  He  was 
In  command  of  the  expedition  of  1604  and  was  at  St.  Croix  when  Champlain  made  his  trip  along  the 
Maine  coast  and  discovered  Mount  Desert  Island. 


45 

SITKA  NATIONAL  MONUMENT,  ALASKA. 

This  monument  reservation,  created  March  23,  1910,  under  the  act 
of  June  8,  1906,  embraces  about  57  acres  of  comparatively  level  gravel 
plain  formed  by  sea  wash  and  by  the  deposits  of  Indian  River, 
which  flows  through  the  tract,  and  is  situated  about  a  mile  from  the 
steamboat  landing  at  Sitka.  Upon  this  ground  was  located  for 
merly  the  village  of  a  warlike  tribe — the  Kjk-Siti  Indians — who,  in 
1802,  massacred  the  Russians  in  old  Sitka  and  thereafter  fortified 
themselves  and  defended  their  village  against  the  Russians  under 
Baranoff  and  Lisianski.  Here,  also,  are  the  graves  of  a  Russian 


Monument  Boundary 


Sieur  de  Monts  National  Monument,  Mount  Desert  Island,  Maine. 

midshipman  and  six  sailors  who  were  killed  in  a  decisive  battle  in 
1804.  A  celebrated  "witch  tree"  of  the  natives  and  16  totem  poles, 
several  of  which  are  examples  of  the  best  work  of  the  savage  gene 
alogists  of  the  Alaska  clans,  stand  sentrylike  along  the  beach. 

The  following  is  from  a  letter  dated  August  31,  1913,  from  Arthur 
G.  Shoup,  member  of  Alaskan  Legislature,  to  J.  W.  Lewis,  special 
agent,  General  Land  Office,  and  now  part  of  General  Land  Office 
files: 


^  great  natural  beauty  of  this  park  is  extolled  by  every  tourist  who  has  ever 
visited  Sitka,  and  it  is  partly  on  account  of  the  exceptional  opportunities  that  it 
affords  for  visitors  from  the  States  to  see  at  once  the  timber  growth,  wild  mosses  and 
small  verdure,  and  mountain  streams  of  Alaska  that  our  Government  has  so  carefully 
guarded  this  reservation. 


46 

Referring  briefly  to  the  historical  features  of  the  Sitka  National  Monument,  or 
Indian  River  Park,  as  it  is  called:  It  was  here  that  the  Russians  under  Baranoff 
in  1802  fought  and  won  the '  'decisive  battle  of  Alaska  "  against  the  Indians  and  effected 
their  lodgment  in  southeastern  Alaska  that  placated  the  then  very  active  attempts 
of  Great  Britain  to  get  possession  of  this  part  of  the  country.  The  Russian  title  thus 
acquired  to  the  Alexander  Archipelago  was  later  transferred  to  the  United  States,  and 
because  of  this  battle  ground  being  in  the  Sitka  National  Monument  it  is  of  great 
patriotic  interest  to  every  Alaskan. 

Another  interesting  feature  of  this  park  is  that  it  is  the  place  where  the  natives 
used  to  conduct  their  weird  trials  and  executions  for  witchcraft.  The  tree  where 
the  victims  were  hanged  still  stands  as  an  object  of  awe  to  the  descendants  of  the  old 
echamen  and  a  subject  of  curiosity  to  the  whites. 


CORNER 


Sitka  National  Monument,  Alaska,  embracing  a  tract  of  land  which  includes  the  mouth  of  Indian  River 
and  adjacent  territory  near  Sitka;  created  March  23,  1910. 

Estimate  in  amount  $1,000  was  submitted  by  the  governor  of 
Alaska  (as  part  of  estimates  for  the  fiscal  year  ending  June  30,  1917, 
for  administration  of  that  Territory)  for  protection,  and  preserva 
tion  of  the  Sitka  National  Monument,  including  repair  of  the  ancient 
totems  and  other  historic  relics,  but  failed  to  receive  favorable  consid 
eration.  However,  considerable  work  has  been  done  in  the  monument 
by  the  Alaska  Road  Commission,  so  that  the  roads  in  the  tract  are 
in  very  good  condition  for  both  wagon  and  pedestrian  travel.  The 
commission  has  constructed  also  a  footbridge  across  Indian  River 
at  an  outlay  of  $2,500. 


47 

Much  work  remains  to  be  done  in  the  way  of  repairs  to  totems  and 
clearing  of  foot  trails.  Practically  all  the  totems  need  repairing 
to  some  extent  and  all  are  in  need,  of  painting. 

SHO  SHONE  CAVERN  NATIONAL,  MONUMENT. 

The  Shoshone  Cavern  National  Monument  embraces  210  acres  of 
rough  mountainous  land  lying  about  3  miles  east  of  the  great  Sho- 


\         /  /  ..         x     rv\\\ll\  I  Mi  /M/j-i/1   '        i'///.    # .\\\\ 

,\  \i l  I//J   o ^\Y!| \\ I \\i////lfi  w ''/;/%$" 


National  Monument  Boundary 


SW.  \ 
\  sec.  8* 


Shoshone  Cavern  National  Monument.  Wyo.,  embracing  the  SW.  \  SE  .J;  W.  i  SE  .}  SE  .  J; 
NE.  JSE.  J;  S.  JNW.  tSE.  J;  and  SE.  i-  SW.  i,  sec.  5;  the  NW.  J  ^  NE.  i  and  NE.  J  NW. 
T.  52  N.,  R.  102  W.,  sixth  principal  meridian;  created  September  21,  1909. 

shone  Dam,  in  Big  Horn  County,  Wyo.  It  was  created  by  presi 
dential  proclamation  of  September  21,  1909.  The  cavern  entrance  is 
located  at  the  summit  of  a  reef  of  rocks  at  the  head  of  a  canyon  upon 
the  north  face  of  Cedar  Mountain,  about  4  miles  southwesterly  from 
Cody,  Wyo.,  on  the  Chicago,  Burlington  &  Quincy  Railway.  The 


48 

ascent  to  the  entrance  from  the  foot  of  the  mountain  is  somewhat 
arduous.  From  the  entrance  the  cavern  runs  in  a  southwesterly 
direction  for  more  than  800  feet  if  measured  in  a  direct  line. 

The  best  method  of  reaching  the  entrance  is  by  means  of  the  canyon 
leading  from  the  foot  of  Cedar  Mountain  to  the  southwest  of  Cody 
on  the  east  side  of  that  mountain  and  which  descends  its  eastern 
slope.  It  is  possible  to  go  by  automobile  or  team  to  the  foot  of  the 
mountain,  a  distance  of  about  2  miles  from  Cody,  and  then  by  a 
graded  road  about  one-third  of  the  way  up  the  mountain.  From 
the  end  of  this  road  it  is  possible  to  go  by  foot  or  on  horseback  to 
within  100  feet  of  the  entrance  of  the  cave. 

Entering  the  cave  one  proceeds  for  some  distance,  possibly  500 
feet,  where  it  is  necessary  to  descend  a  steep,  rocky  wall  by  means  of 
a  rope.  Continuing,  another  declivity  is  encountered,  and  it  is  nec 
essary  to  descend  by  rope  about  30  feet.  Advancing  farther,  possibly 
3,000  to  4,000  feet,  room  after  room  is  encountered,  some  of  which 
are  at  least  150  feet  in  length  and  40  or  50  feet  in  height.  Some  of 
these  rooms,  especially  in  the  extreme  interior,  are  beautifully  in- 
crusted  with  limestone  crystals.  Here  and  there  as  one  proceeds 
through  the  accessible  part  of  the  cave  can  be  seen  small  openings, 
evidently  leading  into  larger  openings,  but  which  as  yet  have  not 
been  explored. 

The  passages  leading  through  the  cavern  are  very  intricate,  and 
twist,  turn,  double  back,  and  descend  in  other  rooms,  so  that  the  trip 
through  the  cave  should  not  be  attempted  without  a  competent  guide, 
with  supply  of  ropes,  and  lamps.  Guides  can  be  employed  in  Cody. 

TTJMACACORI  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

This  monument  embraces  10  acres  of  land  in  Santa  Cruz  County, 
Ariz.,  about  57  miles  south  of  Tucson  and  17  miles  north  of  Nogales, 
relinquished  to  the  United  States  by  homestead  entryman  for  the 
purposes  specified  in  the  act  of  June  8,  1906.  Upon  the  tract  is 
located  a  very  ancient  Spanish  mission  ruin,  dating  it  is  thought  from 
the  latter  part  of  the  seventeenth  century,  built  by  Jesuit  priests  from 
Spain  and  operated  by  them  for  nearly  a  hundred  years.  The  most 
authentic  information  is  that  this  mission,  kno\vn  as  the  Mission 
San  Jose  de  Tumacacori,  was  founded  by  the  Jesuit  priest,  missionary, 
and  explorer,  Father  Eusebio  Francisco  Kino,  between  the  years 
1687  and  1690. 

After  the  year  1769  priests  belonging  to  the  order  of  Franciscan 
Fathers  took  charge  of  the  mission  and  repaired  its  crumbling  walls, 
maintaining  peaceable  possession  thereof  for  about  60  years.  In  the 
early  part  of  the  nineteenth  century  the  mission  was  attacked  by 
Apache  Indians,  who  drove  the  priests  away-  and  disbanded  the 
peaceable  Papago  Indians  residing  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mission. 
When  found  by  the  Americans,  about  the  year  1850,  the  mission  was 
in  a  condition  of  ruin. 

The  ruins  as  they  stand  consist  of  the  walls  and  tower  of  an  old 
church  building,  the  walls  of  a  mortuary  chamber  at  the  north  end 
of  the  church  building,  and  a  court  or  churchyard,  surrounded  by 
an  adobe  wall  2£  feet  thick  and  6  feet  high. 

The  walls  of  the  church  building  are  6  feet  thick,  built  of  adobe 
and  plastered  both  inside  and  outside  with  lime  mortar  1  inch  thick. 
The  inside  walls  of  the  main  church  building  received  two  coats  of 


49 

this  plaster,  a  first  or  inner  coat  being  of  a  rather  coarse  character  and 
the  finishing  coat  being  of  a  very  fine,  hard,  and  lasting  character. 
The  dome  over  the  altar  and  the  belfry  tower  are  constructed  of 
burned  brick,  this  being  one  of  the  characteristics  of  the  architecture 
of  the  mission,  in  which  respect  the  construction  differs  from  other 
early  Spanish  missions.  Inside,  the  dimensions  of  the  church  are  18 
feet  wide  by  75  feet  in  length.  The  part  used  for  the  altar  is  situated 
at  the  north  end.  It  is  18  feet  square,  surmounted  with  a  circular 
dome,  finished  on  the  inside  with  white  plaster  decorated  or  frescoed 
in  colors.  The  plaster  and  decorations  are  in  a  good  state  of  preser 
vation,  but  the  altar  is  entirely  gone.  On  the  east  of  the  altar  room 
there  is  a  sanctuary  chamber,  16  by  20  feet,  20  feet  high,  covered  with 
a  circular  roof  built  of  burned  brick,  supported  in  the  center  by  an 
arch.  This  is  the  only  part  of  the  mission  which  is  now  roofed  over. 
In  the  south  end  of  the  church  there  was  an  arched  partition  which 
formed  a  vestibule.  This  partition  has  been  removed.  The  outside 
wall  of  the  north  end  of  the  church  building  is  decorated  with  white 
plaster  studded  at  regular  intervals  with  clusters  made  of  fragments 
of  broken  slag  and  broken  brick. 

About  25  feet  north  of  the  church  building,  and  in  the  center  of 
,the  churchyard,  there  is  a  circular  mortuary  chamber.  The  wall  is 
3  i  feet  thick  by  16  feet  high,  built  of  adobe,  surmounted  on  the  top 
with  a  row  of  ornamental  cornice  brick  (made  of  burned  brick). 
The  chamber  has  one  entrance.  The  walls  were  originally  decorated 
on  the  outside  with  white  plaster  studded  with  fragments  of  red 
brick. 

The  entrance  to  the  church  is  at  the  south  and  has  an  arched  door 
way.  The  arch  has  partially  broken  out  and  the  wall  above  thereby 
weakened.  To  the  east  of  the  entrance  there  is  a  room,  about  18  feet 
square,  with  a  winding  stairway  inside  leading  up  to  the  belfry. 
The  stairs,  however,  are  gone,  only  the  adobe  walls  on  which  the 
stairs  were  built  being  left.  Access  to  the  belfry  is  gained  by  means 
of  this  old  stairway.  This  room  is  surmounted  with  the  belfry 
tower,  which  is  constructed  of  burned  brick.  The  walls  supporting 
the  tower  are  adobe,  and  are  rapidly  wearing  away.  The  support 
under  the  southwest  corner  of  the  belfry  is  now  gone,  and  the  brick 
work  is  overhanging  with  no  support  and  liable  to  fall  at  any  time. 
Through  action  of  the  elements  the  church,  appurtenant  buildings, 
and  inclosing,  walls  are  in  a  very  bad  state  of  ruin,  most  of  the  roofs 
having  long  since  fallen  in  and  portions  of  the  main  building  having 
become  undermined.  No  preservative  or  restorative  measures  have 
been  taken,  and  until  funds  become  available  therefor  much  further 
deterioration  is  to  be  expected. 

The  plaster  originally  applied  to  the  walls  of  the  church  building 
was  of  excellent  quality,  and  where  unbroken  seems  to  be  of  almost 
imperishable  character,  but  in  many  places  it  has  been  broken  off 
and  carried  away,  presumably  for  grinding  up  and  reuse  by  unauthor 
ized  parties.  Where  the  plaster  has  not  been  broken  the  walls  are 
in  good  condition,  but  wherever  removed  rapid  disintegration  of 
the  walls  has  resulted. 

With  exception  of  a  narrow  strip  of  land  along  the  west  boundary 
of  this  monument,  the  entire  area  lies  within  the  private  land  claim 
Luis  Maria  Baca  Float  No.  3,  which  was  confirmed  to  the  heirs  by 


50 

the  Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States  on  November  2,  1914.  The 
mission  is  therefore  on  land  the  ownership  of  which  is  not  in  the 
Federal  Government.  Effort  has  been  made  during  the  past  year 
by  the  department  to  secure  conveyance  to  the  Government  of  the 
land  belonging  to  the  heirs  within  the  limits  of  the  monument,  but 
so  far  without  result.  Until  title  to  this  land  can  be  vested  in  the 
Federal  Government,  no  expenditure  can  be  made  by  the  depart 
ment  toward  restoration  or  protection  of  the  mission.  It  is  alto 
gether  likely,  in  view  of  the  precarious  condition  of  the  principal 


'*  Cor.  Sec.  30- 3 I 


Turaacacori  National  Monument,  Ariz.,  embracing  the  E.  i  NW.  \  SW.  \  SE.  \  and  the  W.  \ 
NE.  i  SW.  \  SE.  i,  sec.  30,  T.  21  S.,  II.  13  E.,  Gila  and  " 


15,  1908. 


Gila  and  Salt  River  meridian;  created  September- 


portions  of  the  mission,  that  its  damage  beyond  repair  will  take 
place  before  protective  measures  can  be  applied. 

The  State  highway  between  Tucson  and  *Nogalea  .passes  the  mis 
sion  and  is  a  good  automobile  road.  The  Tucson-Nogales  branch 
of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway  passes  within  a  mile  of  the  mission, 
the  nearest  railroad  station  beingTubac,  3  miles  to  the  north.  From 
Tubac  the  monument  can  be  reached  on  foot. 

The  best  means  of  travel  for  the  public  in  reaching  the  monument  is 
by  auto  mail  hack  which  leaves  Nogales,  Ariz.,  every  morning  except 
Monday,  arriving  at  the  ruin  at  10  a.  m.,  and  leaving  by  the  same 
automobile  for  Nogales  at  5.30  p.  m.  The  round  trip  fare  is  $1.50. 


51 


NATIONAL   MONUMENTS   ADMINISTERED    BY   THE   DEPART- 
MENT  OF  AGRICULTURE. 

BANDELIEB  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

This  national  monument,  named  in  honor  of  the  distinguished 
archaeologist,  the  late  Adolph  Francis  Alphonse  Bandelier   (1840- 


*-\\ 


i.-_l 


T.  18  N. 


T.  17  N. 


R.5E. 


R.6  E. 


R.7E. 


Bandelier  National  Monument  within  the  Santa  Fe  National  Forest,  N.  Mex.,  created  February  11, 1916. 

1914),  was  created  by  proclamation  dated  February  11,  1916,  and 
embraces  approximately  22,075  acres  of  land  within  the  Santa  Fe 
National  Forest,  N.  Mex.  The  nearest  town  is  Buckman,  on  the 
Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  18  miles  from  Santa  Fe,  N.  Mex.  The 
monument  can  readily  be  reached  by  automobile  from  Santa  Fe, 
while  a  wagon  road  leads  to  it  from  Buckman. 


52 

Throughout  the  entire  area  prehistoric  ruins  of  all  kinds  occur  in 
vast  numbers.  On  the  sides  of  many  of  the  canyons  are  found  cliff 
dwellings,  carved  out  of  the  soft  tufa  cliffs,  and  upon  the  mesa  tops 
and  in  the  valleys  are  numerous  ruins  of  the  many  chambered  com 
munity  houses  or  pueblos,  ranging  from  those  of  one  or  two  rooms  to 
large  pueblos  having  over  a  hunored  rooms.  In  addition  to  ruins  of 
this  sort,  of  which  mere  are  a  great  many,  there  are  several  artificial 
caves  of  special  interest,  and  also  the  remains  of  two  remarkable 
images,  known  as  the  Stone  Lions,  each  measuring  about  7  feet  in 
length,  which  are  considered  by  many  authorities  as  being  the  most 
important  specimens  of  aboriginal  sculpture  in  the  United  States. 
Considerable  research  work  has  been  carried  on  among  these  ruins 
by  the  American  School  of  Archaeology,  supported  by  the  Archaeo 
logical  Institute  of  America,  and  also  by  the  Bureau  of  American 
Ethnology  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution.  Bulletin  32  of  the  Bureau 
of  American  Ethnology  gives  in  detail  the  results  of  an  investigation 
by  a  representative  of  the  bureau. 

DEVIL  POSTPILE  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

This  national  monument  was  created  by  proclamation  of  July  6, 
1911,  and  is  located  in  the  high  Sierras  a  few  miles  west  of  the  main 
crest  of  the  range  in  the  northeastern  end  of  Madera  County,  in  the 
Sierra  National  Forest. 

The  Devil  Postpile  consists  of  a  spectacular  mass  of-  hexagonal 
basaltic  rock  columns,  about  2  feet  each  in  diameter  and  varying  up 
to  50  feet  in  height,  which  are  exposed  on  one  side  on  the  face  of 
a  nearly  perpendicular  cliff.  These  are  laid  down  in  the  form  of  an 
immense  pile  of  posts,  and  while  there  are  similar  formations  in 
different  parts  of  the  country  this  is  especially  prominent,  being  one 
of  the  most  noted  of  its  kind  on  the  continent,  and  said  to  rank  with 
the  famous  Giants  Causeway  on  the  coast  of  Antrim,  in  the  north  of 
Ireland.  A  mile  or  so  below  the  Postpile  and  within  the  limits  of 
the  national  monument  is  a  beautiful  waterfall,  known  as  Rainbow 
Fall,  in  the  chasm  of  the  upper  Middle  Fork  of  the  San  Joaquin 
River.  The  fall,  while  not  so  high,  resembles  in  appearance  the 
Vernal  Falls  of  the  Merced  River  in  Yosemite  National  Park,  and  is 
one  of  the  few  of  its  kind  on  the  continent. 

Within  the  national  monument  there  is  also  a  picturesque  meadow, 
which  affords  a  fine  camp  site  for  travelers  and  from  which  the  Post- 
pile  is  in  sight,  while  in  the  edge  of  the  river  near  this  meadow  is  a 
hot  sulphur  spring,  which  lends  much  interest  to  the  locality. 

The  national  monument  is  surrounded  by  some  of  the  grandest 
scenery  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  Range,  while  forests  of  fir,  lodge  pole 
and  mountain  pine  clothe  the  surrounding  slopes.  Its  beauties  and 
wonders  will  well  repay  the  difficulties  which  are  imposed  upon  the 
trip  by  the  remoteness  and  relative  inaccessibility  of  its  location. 

The  Devil  Postpile  National  Monument  is  most  easily  reached  over 
the  crest  of  the  range  from  the  east.  From  Laws,  on  the  Southern 
Pacific,  there  is  an  automobile  stage  through  Bishop  to  Mammoth, 
which  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  range,  and  from  Mammoth  animals  can 
be  engaged  for  the  trip  by  trail  which  takes  only  half  a  day  over 
Mammoth  Pass  to  the  national  monument.  The  latter  can  also  be 
reached  from  Fresno,  in  the  San  Joaquin  Valley  on  the  west,  either 


53 

by  automobile  stage  to  Northfork,  Madera  County,  thence  by  a  sec 
ondary  road,  passable  for  automobiles  for  some  10  miles  farther, 
some  30  miles  to  Granite  Creek,  near  the  junction  of  the  forks  of  the 
San  Joaquin  River,  and  from  thence  by  trail  only  some  25  miles  ad 
ditional,  or  by  the  Southern  Pacific  and  the  San  Joaquin  &  Eastern 
Railroads  from  Fresno  to  Cascada  (or  Big  Creek,  as  the  post  office 
is  called),  where  animals  can  be  hired  for  the  trip  by  trail  over 
Kaiser  Pass,  or  around  the  western  flank  of  the  Kaiser  Ridge,  about 
a  two  days'  trip  each  way. 


ATIONAL     MONUMENT     BOUNDARY 


Devil  Postpile  National  Monument,  within  the  Sierra  National  Forest,  Cal.,  created  July  6,  1911. 
GILA  CLIFF-DWELLINGS  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

The  Gila  Cliff-Dwellings  National  Monument  was  created  by  proc 
lamation  dated  November  16,  1907.  These  cliff-dweller  ruins  are 
neither  very  large  nor  very  important,  but  are  located  in  a  district 
in  which  few  prehistoric  ruins  are  found. 

The  ruins  are  situated  approximately  50  miles  northwest  of  Silver 
City,  N.  Mex.,  and  about  4  miles  northwest  of  the  Gila  Hot  Springs. 
The  best  way  to  reach  them  is  by  wagon  and  trail  from  Silver  City 
via  Pinos  Altos. 

The  ruins  are  located  in  the  mouth  of  a  deep,  rough  canyon,  known 
as  the  Cliff  Dwellers  Canyon,  flowing  into  the  West  Fork  of  the  Gila 


54 

Kiver  from  the  south.  They  occupy  four  natural  cavities  in  the  base 
of  an  overhanging  cliff,  which  is  about  150  feet  high,  and  composed 
of  a  grayish  yellow  volcanic  rock. 

The  largest  cavity  is  nearly  circular  and  about  50  feet  in  diameter. 
The  arched  rock  forming  the  roof  is  about  10  feet  above  the  center 
of  the  floor.  In  one  corner  is  a  small  room  6  by  8  feet  built  of  rock 
and  adobe  and  provided  wTith  a  small  entrance  window.  Natural 
archways  lead  into  two  smaller  tributary  cavities.  These  are  divided 
into  a  number  of  small  rooms  by  walls  built  of  adobe  and  small  stones 
which  are  in  such  a  good  state  of  preservation  that  finger  imprints 
made  in  the  adob.e  when  the  walls  were  built  can  still  be  plainly  seen. 
Above  the  small  doorways  and  windows,  pieces  of  timber  were  used 
which  are  perfectly  preserved.  In  some  of  the  higher  walls  holes  can 


C  LI  FF 
DWELLINGS 


SEC.   27 


I 


Gila  Cliff-Dwellings  National  Monument,  within  the  Gila  National  Forest,  N.  Mex.,  embracing  NE.  £  of 
sec.  27,  T.  12  S.,  R.  14  W.,  New  Mexico  meridian;  created  November  16, 1907. 

be  seen  where  timbers,  which  undoubtedly  formed  the  joists  for  a 
second  story,  have  been  burned  out. 

A  fourth  cavity,  separate  from  the  others,  contains  the  walls  of 
small  rooms  in  a  good  state  of  preservation.  There  is  still  another 
cavity,  high  on  the  face  of  the  cliff,  which  has  never  been  explored. 
As  the  cliff  overhangs  it  is  impossible  to  enter  it  by  means  of  sus 
pended  ropes.  It  can  be  entered  only  by  means  of  a  ladder. 

Part  of  the  outer  wall,  which  at  one  time  evidently  closed  the  open 
ings  into  these  cavities,  is  still  partially  preserved.  The  remainder 
shows  that  it  was  intended  for  defensive  purposes,  as  small  windows 
are  the  only  openings. 

When  these  cliff  dwellings  were  first  discovered  by  prospectors  and 
hunters  in  the  early  seventies  a  number  of  relics  in  the  shape  of 
sandals,  baskets,  water  vessels,  cooking  utensils,  spears,  etc.,  were 
found.  Corncobs  can  still  be  found  in  numbers.  Some  of  the  walls 
have  been  destroyed  by  vandals. 


55 

A  mummy  was  found  here  a  number  of  years  ago  which  eventually 
was  placed  in  the  Smithsonian  Institution.  Another  mummy,  found 
in  1912,  also  was  forwarded  to  the  Smithsonian  Institution. 

GRAND  CANYON  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

A  considerable  portion  of  the  area  set  aside  by  the  proclamation 
creating  this  national  monument  is  covered  by  three  different  procla 
mations,  one  of  which  created  the  Grand  Canyon  Forest  Reserve,  one 
the  game  preserve  embracing  that  part  of  the  national  forest  north 
of  the  river,  and  the  third  the  monument  proclamation.  The  monu 
ment  now  comprises  a  tract  of  806,400  acres  lying  within  the  Tusayan 
and  Kaibab  National  Forests,  and  is  partly  coextensive  with  the 
Grand  Canyon  Game  Preserve.  It  is  believed  that  the  most  wonder 
ful  portion  of  the  canyon  is  contained  within  the  present  limits  of 
the  national  monument  and  game  preserves. 

The  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Colorado  was  discovered  in  the  year 
1540  by  Don  Garcia  Lopez  de  Cardenas,  a  captain  under  Coronado. 
The  pioneer  work  in  its  scientific  exploration  was  done  between  the 
years  1869  and  1882  by  the  late  Maj.  John  Wesley  Powell,  United 
States  Army,  and  formerly  Director  of  the  United  States  Geological 
Survey.1  In  1902  it  became  accessible  by  railroad  and  is  now  visited 
by  100,000  people  each  year. 

All  experienced  travelers,  with  one  accord,  have  given  the  Grand 
Canyon  a  high  place  among  the  great  wonders  of  the  world.  It  con 
sists  of  a  mile-deep  gorge  cut  through  a  hundred  miles  of  high  for 
ested  plateau,  and  is  principally  remarkable  for  its  brilliant  and 
variegated  color  effects  and  the  extraordinary  sculpturing  of  its 
interior  by  ages  of  erosive  action.  The  lateral  canyons  contain  many 
cliff  dwellings.  While  the  main  canyon  is  more  than  10  miles  wide 
at  all  points,  the  river  itself  runs  through  an  inner  chasm  of  solid 
granite  and  contains  many  rapids  which  have  claimed  a  number  of 
Hves  and  have  not  been  often  successfully  navigated.  A  cable  ferry 
crosses  the  river  at  one  point. 

That  part  of  the  Grand  Canyon  National  Monument  south  of  the 
river,  which  is  the  part  most  often  visited,  is  administered  by  the 
United  States  Forest  Service  as  part  of  the  Tusayan  National  Forest. 
The  forest  supervisor's  headquarters  is  at  Williams,  Ariz.,  and  the 
local  forest  ranger  is  stationed  at  Howe  Well,  3^  miles  southwest  of 
the  railroad  terminal.  To  preserve  the  scenic  value  of  points  along 
the  rim,  especially  thorough  protection  is  provided  against  forest 
fires. 

The  easiest  way  to  reach  the  Grand  Canyon  is  by  way  of  the  Santa 
Fe  Railway,  which  maintains  a  branch  line  extending  from  its  main 
transcontinental  line  at  Williams,  Ariz.,  to  the  south  rim  of  the 
canyon  itself.  At  this  point  first-class  hotel  facilities  and  livery 
service  are  afforded,  while  excellent  roads  and  trails  lead  into  the 
canyon  and  to  points  along  the  rim  in  either  direction. 

Transcontinental  motorists  are  also  visiting  the  canyon  in  increas 
ing  numbers.  Good  branch  roads  lead  to  the  canyon  from  the  main 
ocean-to-ocean  highway. 

1  A  monument  to  commemorate  the  work  of  Maj.  Powell  has  been  recently  erected  on  the  south  brink  of 
the  canyon  not  far  from  the  El  Tovar  Hotel.  (For  photograph  see  Am.  Forestry,  vol.  22,  p.  205,  April,  1916.) 


56 

Under  the  protection  given  by  the  Forest  Service,  under  the  au 
thority  of  the  proclamation  establishing  the  Grand  Canyon  National 
Game  Preserve,  game  animals  have  steadily  increased.  The  pre 
serve  is  now  estimated  to  contain  10,000  head  of  blacktail  deer  and 


Grand  Canyon  National  Monument,  within  the  Grand  Canyon  National  Forest,  Ariz.;  created  January 

11,  1908. 

a  large  number  of  bighorn  or  mountain  sheep.     Mountain  lions  and 

other  predatory  animals  are  systematically  destroyed  by  forest  officers. 

Steps  have  been  taken  to  create  a  national  park  of  the  Grand  Canyon 

of  the  Arizona,  and  a  bill  (H.  R.  6331)  providing  for  such  purpose 


57 

was  introduced  in  the  Sixty-second  Congress  April  20,  1911.  The 
bill,  however,  did  not  become  a  law.  In  the  Sixty-fourth  Congress 
similar  bills  (H.  R.  20447  and  S.  8250)  were  introduced,  and  in  the 
Sixty-fifth  Congress  S.  390  will  be  given  consideration. 

JEWEL,  CAVE  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

Jewel  Cave  National  Monument  was  created  by  proclamation  dated 
February  7,  1908. 

Jewel  Cave,  which  is  located  13  miles  west  and  south  of  Custer,  the 
county  seat  of  Custer  County,  S.  Dak.,  was  discovered  on  August  18, 


v  1 


1 


/Sec.  34. 


\ 

5ec.  35    V"' 


\ 


— -''  °  Jasper  Cav 


house 


Jewel 


Sec.  3 


Sec.  Z 


J 


Jewel  Cave  National  Monument,  within  the  Black  Hills  National  Forest,  S.  Dak.,  Tps.  3  and  4  S.,  E,  2  E. 
Black  Hills  meridian;  created  February  7,  1908. 

1900,  by  two  prospectors,  Albert  and  F.  W.  Michaud,  whose  attention 
was  attracted  by  the  noise  of  wind  coming  from  a  small  hole  in  the 
limestone  cliffs  on  the  east  side  of  Hell  Canyon.  In  the  hope  of  dis 
covering  some  valuable  minerals  and  the  source  of  the  wind,  these 
men,  in  company  with  one  Charles  Bush,  enlarged  the  opening. 

The  cave,  as  far  as  known,  is  located  in  limestone  formation  and  is 
apparently  the  result  of  action  of  water.     A  prominent  geologist  who 


58 

visited  this  cave  believes  it  to  be  an  extinct  geyser  channel.  The 
main  passage  has  been  explored  a  distance  of  over  3  miles,  although 
it  has  been  opened  up  for  visitors  only  1^  miles,  a  short  distance 
beyond  Milk  River,  which  is  a  stream  flowing  through  a  white  lime 
stone,  which  gives  the  water  the  appearance  of  milk. 

The  limits  of  the  main  passage  and  side  galleries  are  as  yet  un 
known.  Explorations  have  been  carried  in  a  northerly  direction  and 
vertically  100  feet  below  the  entrance. 

On  either  side  of  the  main  passage  are  side  galleries  and  chambers 
of  various  sizes.  The  first  chamber,  or  gallery,  is  lithographic  lime 
stone  and  resembles  the  Gothic  style  of  architecture.  About  500  feet 
from  the  entrance,  the  walls  and  roofs  of  a  number  of  the  chambers 
are  lined  with  a  thick  crystalline  calcite  and  the  floor  is  of  calcite  and 
manganese. 

Within  the  different  chambers  one  may  see  different  colored  chert. 
It  varies  in  color,  some  having  a  peculiar  light-green  tint,  also  dark 
green  and  bronze.  The  surface  of  the  rock  is  smooth  and  should 
take  a  high  polish. 

The  chambers  are  connected  with  narrow  passages  generally, 
although  wide  passages  are  sometimes  found.  The  narrow  passages 
are  very  picturesque.  The  "box  work"  or  honeycomb  crystalliza 
tion  is  very  attractive.  The  color  ranges  from  a  light  brown  to  a 
deep  chocolate  shade,  and  the  boxlike  cavities,  covered  with  minute 
crystals,  stand  in  relief  from  the  ground  mass. 

'Geodes  of  various  size  and  shape  are  found  in  the  walls  and  pas 
sageways,  galleries,  and  chambers.  The  brilliancy  of  some  of  these 
cavities  is  very  beautiful. 

The  explorers  have  been  careful  observers  of  the  action  of  the  wind 
within  the  cave.  They  have  discovered  that  ordinarily  the  wind 
blows  in  and  out  of  the  cave  for  regular  periods  of  15  hours  each, 
although  they  have  known  the  periods  to  be  of  72  hours'  duration. 
Other  wind  passages  have  been  discovered  in  the  vicinity  of  the  cave. 

The  cave  is  a  wonderful  creation  of  nature  and  worthy  of  many 
hours  of  study.  As  yet  it  has  not  been  robbed  of  its  beautiful 
specimens.  A  good  automobile  road  leads  to  the  cave  from  Ouster, 
about  12  miles  distant.  Good  spring  water  is  plentiful  near  the  cave. 

MOUNT  OLYMPUS  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

This  monument  as  originally  set  aside  by  presidential  proclamation 
of  March  2,  1909,  contained  approximately  608, 640. acres  of  land  in 
the  Olympic  Mountains  in  northwestern  Washington.  It  was 
created  for  the  purpose  of  preserving  many  objects  of  great  and 
unusual  scientific  interest,  embracing  numerous  glaciers,  and  the 
territory  has  also  been  from  time  immemorial  the  summer  range  and 
breeding  ground  of  the  Olympic  elk,  a  species  which  is  rapidly  de 
creasing  in  numbers.  These  elk  have  been  protected  by  special 
State  laws,  which  prohibit  killing  them  at  any  season  for  about  10 
years,  and  now  that  their  summer  range  is  protected  they  are  begin 
ning  to  increase.  In  fact,  while  it  is  impossible  to  say  how  many 
elk  are  now  found  within  the  monument,  it  is  probably  safe  to  estimate 
the  number  in  the  whole  Olympic  region  at  double  what  it  was  in 
1905,  when  the  season  was  first  closed  and  when  the  total  number 
was  estimated  at  2,000. 


59 

Bills  were  introduced  in  the  Sixty-second  Congress  on  July  15, 
1911,  and  February  13,  1912,  providing  for  establishment  as  a 
national  park  the  same  tract  of  land  as  was  set  aside  by  proclamation 
of  the  President  creating  the  Mount  Olympus  National  Monument. 
These  measures  failed  to  pass,  and  in  the  Sixty-fourth  Congress  similar 
bills  (S.  3488  and  H.  R.  6864)  were  again  introduced  in  1916. 

The  reservation  was  reduced  by  presidential  proclamation  of  April 
17,  1912,  to  608,480  acres  in  order  to  permit  certain  claimants  to 
land  therein  to  secure  title  to  the  land.  JBy  proclamation  of  May  11, 
1915,  the  monument  was  further  reduced,  and  the  lands  eliminated 
thereby  made  part  of  the  Olympic  National  Forest,  in  order  to  permit 
of  their  development,  the  area  eliminated  not  being  essential  to  the 
purposes  for  which  the  monument  was  originally  established.  The 
present  area  of  the  monument  is  299,370  acres.  The  proclamation 
of  May  11,  1915,  reads: 

I,  Woodrow  Wilson,  President  of  the  United  States  of  America,  by  virtue  of 
the  power  in  me  vested  by  section  2  of  the  act  entitled,  "An  act  for  the  preserva 
tion  of  American  antiquities,"  approved  June  8,  1906  (34  Stat.,  225),  do  hereby 
proclaim  that  the  boundaries  of  the  Mount  Olympus  National  Monument  as  fixed 
and  defined  by  proclamation  of  March  2,  1909  (35  Stat.,  2247),  and  as  modified  by 
proclamation  of  April  17,  1912  (37  Stat.,  1737),  are  hereby  further  modified  and  estab 
lished  as  shown  on  the  diagram  forming  a  part  hereof,  and  said  national  monument 
as  so  modified  and  established  shall  be  administered  in  accordance  with  the  afore 
said  proclamation  of  March  2,  1909. 

It  is  not  intended  that  the  lands  eliminated  from  the  Mount  Olympus  National 
Monument  by  this  proclamation  shall  be  eliminated  from  the  Olympic  National 
Forest,  as  established  by  proclamation  of  March  2,  1907  (34  Stat.,  3306),  but  such 
lands  shall  continue  subject  to  the  reservation  for  forest  purposes  therein  made. 

In  witness  whereof  I  have  hereunto  set  my  hand  and  caused  the  seal  of  the  United 
States  to  be  affixed. 

Done  at  the  city  of  Washington  this  llth  day  of  May  in  the  year  of  our 

[SEAL.]       Lord  one  thousand  nine  hundred  and  fifteen,  and  of  the  independence 
of  the  United  States  the  one  hundred  and  thirty-ninth. 

There  are  a  number  of  different  routes  by  which  the  Mount 
Olympus  National  Monument  may  be  reached,  all  of  which  require 
some  travel  by  trail.  The  most  convenient  and  quickest  route, 
though  not  the  shortest  in  point  of  miles,  by  which  a  most  excellent 
view  can  be  had  of  Mount  Olympus  and  scenic  surroundings — about 
6  miles  air  line — is  by  way  of  Port  Angeles  and  the  Sol  Due  Hot 
Springs,  as  follows:  Leave  Seattle  on  a  Puget  Sound  steamer  about 
midnight,  arriving  in  Port  Angeles  about  7  the  following  morning. 
Take  automobile  stage  for  Sol  Due  Hot  Springs,  45  miles,  arriving 
about  noon.  Monument  boundary  about  2  mites  by  trail  up  river, 
but  close  view  of  Mount  Olympus  not  possible  until  Sol-Duc-Hoh 
divide  is  reached,  about  11  miles  by  trail  from  Sol  Due  Hotel. 

Another  route,  and  the  most  practicable  in  case  a  trip  through  the 
monument  from  north  to  south  is  desired,  is  by  way  of  Port  Angeles 
and  the  Elwha  and  Queniult,  coming  out  by  way  of  Queniult  Lake 
and  Hoquiam.  From  Port  Angeles  to  the  Elwha  River  bridge  on 
the  Lake  Crescent  road  is  a  little  under  11  miles,  the  morning  stage 
reaching  that  point  about  9.30  a.  m.  Horse  or  foot  travel  must  then 
be  resorted  to  over  a  mountain  trail  of  more  than  ordinary  steep 
pitches,  exasperating  ups  and  downs,  and,  on  the  Queniult  side,  some 
very  narrow  and  rather  dangerous  grades  for  a  total  through  distance 
to  Queniult  Lake  of  about  70  miles.  A  side  trip  to  the  Elwha- 
Queets  divide  at  the  base  of  Mount  Olympus  would  add  12  miles 


60 

more.  Other  trail  routes  approach  close  to  portions  of  the  monu 
ment,  but  do  not  lead  through  or  into  the  highest  and  most  scenic 
interior,  such  travel  being  possible  only  on  foot  and  by  merely  picking 
one's  way  along  rough  snowcapped  ridges  or  through  creek  bottoms, 


Mount  Olympus  National  Monument,  within  the  Olympic  National  Forest,  Wash.,  originally  created 
March  2,  1909;  boundaries  modified  as  above  May  11,  1915. 

along  elk  trails,  etc.  The  two  best  trails  from  the  east,  or  Hoods 
Canal,  side  are  up  the  Dosewallips  River  and  the  North  Fork  of 
Skokomish  River.  The  Dosewallips  route  is  accessible  from  Seattle 
as  follows:  Take  steamship  Potlatch  from  Seattle  at  9  a.  m.,  reaching 


61 

Brinnon  about  2  p.  m.  A  wagon  road  extends  up  the  Dosewallips 
River  7  miles  from  Brinnon,  and  a  quite  satisfactory  horse  trail  con 
tinues  to  Sulphur  Springs,  13  miles  farther,  which  lands  one  within 
5  or  6  miles  of  the  monument  boundary.  Travel  beyond  that  point 
is  only  possible  on  foot  and  with  considerable  personal  exertion  and 
rough  going.  At  least  30  miles  of  very  rough  travel  would  be  neces 
sary  to  reach  Mount  Olympus,  the  highest  point,  8,200  feet. 

The  North  Fork  Skokomish  route-  may  be  reached  from  Seattle  as 
follows:  Take  steamship  Potlatch  from  Seattle  at  9  a.  m.,  arriving  at 
Hoodsport  about  4.30  p.  m.  Automobile  stage  to  Lake  Cushman,  9 
miles,  same  evening.  A  fair  horse  trail  from  the  hotels  at  that  point 
reaches  the  head  of  the  river  a  few  miles  inside  the  monument  boun 
dary,  a  distance  of  nearly  20  miles,  from  which  point  an  excellent 
view  may  be  had  of  the  Mount  Anderson  country.  Cross-country 
travel  to  Mount  Olympus  is,  however,  impossible  from  this  point, 
excepting  on  foot  and  with  unusually  careful  and  tedious  mountain 
climbing. 

The  only  feasible  route  from  the  west  side  is  up  the  Hoh  River 
over  a  horse  trail,  which  is  quite  satisfactory-  in  dry  weather,  extend 
ing  40  miles  from  the  settlement  of  Forks.  Forks  is  reached  by 
automobile  road  from  Port  Angeles  and  from  Clallam  Bay,  being 
about  62  miles  from  the  former  and  about  30  from  the  latter.  The 
horse  trail  on  the  upper  Hoh  ends  at  4  or  5  miles  inside  the  monument 
and  perhaps  10  miles  by  a  rough  and  somewhat  dangerous  foot-travel 
route  from  the  top  of  Mount  Olympus. 

OLD  KASAAN  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

This  national  monument,  created  by  proclamation  dated  October 
25,  1916,  embraces  38.3  acres  of  land  on  the  east  coast  of  Prince  of 
Wales  Island  and  on  the  northerly  shore  of  Skowl  Arm  of  Clarence 
Strait,  Alaska,  located  within  the  Tongass  National  Forest.  It  is 
situated  about  30  miles  distant  from  Ketchikan,  Alaska,  in  approxi 
mately  longitude  132°  23'  30"  W.  and  latitude  55°  25'  30"  N.,  and 
covers  the  abandoned  Indian  village  called  "Old  Kasaan,"  formerly 
occupied  by  the  Hydah  tribe  of  Alaskan  natives. 

The  monument  is  readily  reached  by  small  boat  from  Ketchikan, 
and  the  regular  excursion  steamers  from  Seattle  to  southeastern 
Alaska  frequently  put  in  at  Old  Kasaan  as  an  accommodation  to 
tourist  travel. 

Within  the  monument  are  50  totem  poles,  and  8  community  houses, 
the  latter  of  which  are  falling  into  disrepair,  as  the  village  has  been 
abandoned  by  the  natives  for  the  past  10  years.  Prior  to  its  aban 
donment  it  had  been  occupied  by  the  Hydahs  for  a  great  many  years. 
The  location  is  in  one  of  the  most  beautiful  spots  in  southern  Alaska. 

About  30  of  the  totem  poles  are  in  the  village,  the  others  being  in 
a  group  about  500  feet  westerly  of  the  village.  In  the  westerly  por 
tion  of  the  village  are  six  graves  with  monuments  and  small  grave 
houses.  Six  others  are  situated  in  the  easterly  portion  of  the  village. 
The  community  houses  are  rectangular  buildings,  the  largest  being 
40  by  60  feet,  made  entirely  from  round,  split,  and  carved  timbers. 
The  interior  of  these  buildings  is  all  in  one  room,  in  the  center  of 
which,  in  the  larger  buildings,  is  a  two-decked  pit,  the  inner  pit  being 


62 


about  24  feet  square.  This  pit  is  lined  on  each  side  by  a  cedar  plank 
6  inches  thick  and  2  feet  high,  the  floor  of  the  upper  deck  being  3  feet 
wide  and  the  outer  sides  being  lined  with  6-inch  plank  24  inches  high, 
similar  to  the  inner  pit.  In  the  center  of  this  pit  is  a  graveled  fire 
place,  8  by  10  feet.  Above  this  fireplace  there  is  a  hole  in  the  roof  for 
the  escape  of  the  smoke.  Around  the  outside  of  the  pit  there  is  a 
floor  space  anywhere  from  4  to  10  feet  in  width,  depending  upon  the 


size  of  the  building.  On  this  floor  space  is  found  a  number  of  sleeping 
booths  consisting  merely  of  boxes  made  of  split  cedar  about  the  size 
of  a  piano  box,  on  one  side  of  which  there  is  a  horizontal  opening  for 
entrance.  These  pits  were  arranged  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
occupants  of  the  houses,  in  each  of  which  always  lived  a  large  num 
ber  of  families. 

The  community  houses  are  peculiarly  illustrative  of  the  architec 
ture  of  the  Alaskan  native. 


63 


OREGON  CAVES  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

The  Oregon  Caves  National  Monument  was  created  by  proclama 
tion  of  July  12,  1909. 

The  Oregon  Caves,  or  "Marble  Halls,"  of  Josephine  County,  dis 
covered  by  Elija  Davidson  in  1874,  are  located  in  the  Siskiyou 


NATIONAL  MONUMENT  BOUNDARY".*; 


$ 


Cree  k  O  ®  Entrance  to  Caves 


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V'*f%V  *«*  Variation   K 

Oregon  Caves  National  Monument,  within  the  Siskiyou  National  Forest,  Oreg.,  created  j'uly  12,  1909. 

National  Forest  about  30  miles  south  of  Grants  Pass  in  Cave  Mountain, 
a  peak  of  the  Greyback  Range  that  divides  the  headwaters  of  the 
Applegate  and  Illinois  Rivers  and  connects  with  the  Siskiyou  Moun 
tains  near  the  north  line  of  California. 


64 

Leaving  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway  at  Grants  Pass,  a  fair  wagon 
and  automobile  road  runs  as  far  as  the  Stephens  Ranch  on  upper 
Williams  Creek,  a  distance  of  26  miles.  From  this  point  to  the 
caves  the  trip  must  be  made  on  horseback  or  afoot  over  a  very  good 
forest  trail  a  distance  of  about  10  miles. 

Cave  Mount ain,  the  peak  which  contains  these  caves,  rises  to  an 
elevation  of  about  6,000  feet  and  is  of  limestone  formation.  The 
main  openings  around  which  the  national  monument  has  been  created 
are  at  an  elevation  of  4,000  feet,  but  the  entire  mountain  side  of  5 
or  6  miles  shows  caverns  of  various  sizes,  and  in  all  probability 
its  interior  throughout  is  honeycombed  like  the  portion  that  has 
been  explored. 

These  caves  are  more  of  a  series  of  galleries  than  of  roomy  caverns, 
though  many  beautiful  rooms  have  been  discovered,  while  miles  of 
galleries  have  been  visited;  but  there  are  thousands  of  passageways 
leading  in  all  directions — partly  closed  by  stalactites — that  have  never 
been  opened,  and  with  the  distant  and  unexplored  openings  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  mountain  the  magnitude  of  the  Oregon  Caves 
can  be  said  to  be  practically  unknown. 

Many  small  streams  are  found  at  different  elevations,  and  larger 
bodies  of  running  water  can  be  heard  in  pits  bottomless  so  far  as 
measured  (by  300-foot  line).  This  running  water  probably  accounts 
for  currents  of  wind  that  in  some  of  the  galleries  blow  so  hard  as  to 
extinguish  an  open  light  at  once. 

The  lime  deposits  take  many  beautiful  forms — massive  pillars, 
delicate  stalactites  of  alabaster  whiteness  with  the  crystal  drop  of 
water  carrying  its  minute  deposit  of  lime,  from  which  they  are 
formed,  and  broad  sheets  resembling  drapery  with  graceful  curves 
and  waves  that  were  certainly  made  by  varying  currents  of  wind 
during  formation. 

The  Forest  Service  has  rebuilt  and  improved  the  trails  leading  to 
the  caves  from  each  side  of  the  divide,  in  order  to  protect  the  valuable 
forest  surrounding  and  to  make  the  caves  more  accessible  to  tourists. 

TONTO  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

The  Tonto  National  Monument,  created  by  proclamation  dated 
December  19,  1907,  is  located  in  Gila  County,  Ariz.  Situated  only 
1  mile  south  of  the  ocean-to-ocean  highway,  80  miles  east  of  Phoenix, 
40  miles  north  of  Globe,  Ariz.,  and  about  4  miles  east  of  the  Roosevelt 
Dam,  this  monument  is  one  of  the  most  easily  accessible  ruins  of  the 
vanished  race  of  cliff  dwellers.  From  the  main  road  between  Globe 
and  Phoenix,  Ariz.,  automobiles  may  be  driven  over  a  good  branch 
road  to  within  half  a  mile  of  the  nearest  of  the  groups  of  cliff  dwellings. 

The  southern  group  of  dwellings  is  located  in  a  cavern  formed  by 
the  peculiar  weathering  of  argillite  rock,  which  forms  a  perpendic 
ular  or  overhanging  wall,  with  a  steep  talus  slope  below,  so  plenti 
fully  studded  with  chplla  cactus  as  to  suggest  tKeir  having  been 
planted  there  by  the  cliff  dwellers  as  a  defense  against  their  enemies. 
This  natural  cavern  is  about  125  feet  across  and  the  ledge  upon 
which  the  dwellings  are  built  is  35  feet  wide  at  the  widest  point. 
From  the  outer  edge  of  the  footwall  to  the  overhanging  roof  of  the 
cavern  the  perpendicular  distance  is  30  or  40  feet.  The  dwelling, 
evidently  communal,  contained  originally  about  15  chambers,  each 


65 

from  12  to  16  feet  square  and  6  feet  in  height.  Ten  chambers  are  hi 
a  fair  state  of  preservation,  and  most  of  these  are  two  or  three 
storied,  depending  upon  whether  or  not  the  inhabitants  lived  in  the 
space  between  the  second  artificial  roof  and  the  cavern  roof  above. 
The  construction  of  the  dwellings  shows  careful  planning  and  no 
mean  knowledge  of  the  art  of  masonry.  The  walls  are  of  flat  rocks 
cemented  together  with  a  gravelly  adobe.  The  ceilings  are  cleverly 
constructed  of  wooden  poles  with  their  ends  deeply  embedded  in  the 
side  walls.  A  solid  layer  of  fibers  from  the  Saguaro  or  giant  cactus 
rests  transversely  upon  the  poles,  and  upon  them  is  spread  about  4 


Tonto  National  Monument,  unsurveyed  sec.  34,  T.  4  N.,  R.  12  E.,  Gila  and  Salt  River  meridian,  Ariz., 
containing  640  acres;  created  December  19,  1907. 

inches  of  adobe,  forming  the  floor  of  the  chamber  above.  Small 
openings  or  doors,  generally  about  2  by  4  feet,  provided  communi 
cation  between  chambers  on  the  same  level,  but  in  only  one  instance 
(noted  in  the  northern  group  of  dwellings)  is  there  an  opening  in 
the  ceiling  of  a  chamber  to  allow  egress  to  the  chamber  above.  There 
are  occasional  small  holes  in  the  side  walls  of  the  inner  chambers, 
apparently  for  the  purpose  of  ventilation,  lighting,  or  communication, 
but  so-called  " arrow  holes"  in  the  outer  walls,  through  which  the 
beleagured  inhabitants  are  popularly  supposed  to  have  shot  arrows 
at  storming  parties  of  their  enemies,  have  every  appearance  of  being 


66 

simply  apertures  left  by  the  removal  of  the  roofing  poles.  Fragments 
of  metates,  or  primitive  stone  utensils  for  grinding  corn,  and  even 
corncobs,  are  to  be  found  among  the  ruins. 

The  northern  group  of  dwellings  includes  two  caverns.  One  con 
tains  about  12  rooms  in  a  better  state  of  preservation  than  those  of 
the  southern  group,  although  badly  vandalized.  One  large  interior 
chamber  is  in  a  perfect  state  of  preservation.  The  other  cavern  of 
this  group  contains  eight  single-storied  chambers,  poorly  preserved. 

WALNUT  CANYON  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

This  national  monument  created  by  proclamation  of  November  30, 
1915,  embraces  960  acres  of  land  within  the  Coconico  National  Forest, 
about  8  miles  southeast  of  the  city  of  Flagstaff,  Ariz. 


Walnut  Canvon  National  Monument  within  the  Coconino  National  Forest,  Ari^,  created  November  30, 

1915. 

Within  this  area,  and  along  both  sides  of  Walnut  Canyon,  there 
are  situated  about  30  prehistoric  cliff  dwellings  of  great  scientific 
and  popular  interest.  These  cliff  dwellings  are  readily  accessible, 
since  a  transcontinental  railroad  passes  through  Flagstaff,  and  the 
highway  known  as  the  " Ocean- to-Ocean  and  Old  Trails  Highway" 
now  passes  within  a  short  distance  of  Walnut  Canyon.  At  present  a 


67 

local  officer  of  the  Forest  Service  who  resides  at  the  Cliffs  K  anger 
Station,  immediately  north  of  this  area,  acts  as  custodian  of  these 
ruins.  The  scenic  features  surrounding  the  cliff  dwellings  are  also 
quite  notable,  since  the  trail  from  the  pine-covered  mesa  passes 
down  an  arroyo  fringed  with  locust.  This  trail  follows  around  the 
benches  of  the  canyon  walls,  as  most  of  the  ruins  are  below  the  can 
yon  rim.  In  places  ladders  have  been  constructed  so  that  cliff 
dwellings  otherwise  inaccessible  might  be  reached.  The  cliff  houses 
themselves  were  built  in  under  the  outward  sloping  canyon  walls. 
Apparently  each  must  have  been  built  for  the  accommodation  of 
one  large  family,  since  the  largest  contains  but  6  to  8  rooms.  They 
were  afl  constructed  with  selected  stone  and  mortar,  plastered  on 
the  inside,  the  construction  consisting  of  large  slabs  set  perpen 
dicularly  so  as  to  form  a  continuous  although  irregular  passage 
from  the  outside  to  the  ulterior.  Openings  were  left  so  that  the 
rooms  on  each  side  receive  a  current  of  air.  To  the  south  of  the 
cliff  dwellings  in  the  center  of  Walnut  Canyon  is  an  isolated  butte 
which  appears  to  have  been  used  as  a  fort,  masonry  walls  having 
been  built  up  where  the  slope  was  not  naturally  precipitous,  ren 
dering  ascent  impossible  without  the  aid  of  long  ladders.  The  ruins 
as  a  whole  are  in  a  fairly  good  state  of  preservation,  and  while  many 
of  the  masonry  walls  were  broken  down  by  vandals  and  many  relics 
have  no  doubt  been  removed,  the  remaining  walls  are  so  well  pro 
tected  by  the  limestone  ridges  that  they  will  remain  intact  indefi 
nitely. 

It  is  estimated  that  approximately  3,000  people  visit  these  cliff 
dwellings  each  year. 

WHEELER  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

The  Wheeler  National  Monument,  named  in  honor  of  the  late 
Capt.  George  Montague  Wheeler,  United  States  Engineers  (1842— 
1905) ,  in  charge  of  geographical  explorations  west  of  the  one  hundredth 
meridian,  1869-1879,  was  created  by  proclamation  of  December  7, 
1908.  It  is  located  in  the  Rio  Grande  National  Forest,  in  Mineral 
County,  Colo.,  on  the  east  slope  of  the  divide  between  the  head  of 
the  West  Fork  of  Bellows  Creek  on  the  south  side  of  the  range  and 
the  head  of  the  South  Fork  of  Saguache  Creek  on  the  north  side  of 
the  range  and  about  1  mile  southeast  of  Half  Moon  Pass,  in  sections 
17  and  20,  township  42  north,  range  2  east.  New  Mexico  principal 
meridian. 

The  tract  lies  on  the  southern  slope  of  the  ridge  which  forms  the 
crest  of  the  Continental  Divide.  It  is  traversed  from  north  to  south 
by  numerous  deep  canyons  with  very  precipitous  sides,  the  inter 
vening  ridges  being  capped  by  pinnacle-like  rocks,  making  it  prac 
tically  impossible  to  cross  the  tract  from  east  to  west,  even  on  foot. 
There  are  also  many  crevices  cutting  the  ridges  transversely,  making 
an  intricate  network  of  ravines  separated  bv  broken,  precipitous 
ledges  and  broken  mesas. 

It  is  probable  that  the  formation  found  here  is  the  result  of  a 
succession  of  outpourings  of  lava  and  showers  of  volcanic  ash  which 
have  left  a  series  of  nearly  hprizontal  strata  of  varying  degrees  of 
hardness.  Numerous  pebbles  and  breccia  of  a  flint  like  rock  are 
embedded  in  the  softer  lavas,  which  were  probably  gathered  up  by  the 


68 

flowing  lava  mud  from  the  original  bedrock.  The  formation  is  for 
the  most  part  scoriaceous  tufa  and  trachyte,  with  some  rhyolite. 
The  effect  of  erosion  on  this  formation  has  been  to  cut  it  into  sharply 
defined  forms  of  many  kinds.  The  harder  broken  rocks  embedded  in 
the  lavas  have  acted  as  veritable  chisels,  greatly  accelerating  erosive 
action  and  making  the  lines  and  angles  more  sharply  defined  than 
would  be  the  case  in  ordinary  weathering.  This  erosion  is  still  going 
on  at  a  remarkably  rapid  rate,  making  the  place  very  interesting 
from  the  geological  point  of  view. 


Wheeler  National  Monument,  within  the  Cochetopa  and  Rio  Grande  National  Forests,  Colo.,  T.  42  N., 
R.  2  E.,  New  Mexico  meridian;  created  December  7,  1908. 

The  fantastic  forms  resulting  from  the  rapid  erosion  make  this 
spot  one  of  exceptional  beauty.  The  numerous  winding  canyons, 
broken  ridges,  pinnacles,  and  buttes  form  striking  and  varied  scenes. 

From  the  most  reliable  data  it  is  believed  that  the  ill-fated  expedi 
tion  of  General  John  C.  Fremont,  in  1848,  reached  this  immediate 
vicinity,  when  disaster  came  upon  the  party,  compelling  it  to  turn 
back.  Skeletons  of  mules,  bits  of  harness,  and  camp  equipage  are 
found  here,  lending  force  to  the  recorded  data. 

In  order  to  reach  the  monument  it  is  necessary  to  use  saddle 
horses  from  Wagon  Wheel  Gap  or  Creede,  points  011  the  Denver  & 


69 

Ilio  Grande  Railroad.  From  these  places  the  monument  may  be 
reached  by  two  different  routes;  one  by  leaving  the  Rio  Grande  a 
short  distance  above  Wagon  Wheel  Gap  and  following  the  old 
wagon  road  into  Blue  Creek  Park,  thence  following  the  trail  around 
to  the  monument  by  the  way  of  the  head  of  East  Bellows  Creek.  By 
this  route  the  distance  is  approximately  17  miles  over  a  fairly  good 
trail.  The  second  route  is  to  follow  down  the  Rio  Grande  on  the 
north  side  from  Creede  to  about  1  mile  below  Waspn,  or  3  miles  below 
Creede,  thence  taking  the  Forest  Service  trail,  which  is  posted  for  the 
entire  distance  from  where  it  leaves  the  river  bottom  below  Wason 
to  the  monument.  This  is  a  good  trail,  and  the  distance  is  about  13 
miles. 

NATIONAL     MONUMENTS     ADMINISTERED      BY     THE     WAR 

DEPARTMENT. 

BIG  HOLE  BATTLE  FIELD  MONUMENT. 

This  monument,  which  includes  5  acres  of  land  in  Beaverhead 
County,  Mont.,  about  55  miles  southwest  of  Butte,  is  under  the  juris 
diction  of  the  War  Department.  The  tract  was  reserved  for  military 
purposes  by  Executive  order  of  June  23,  1910,  for  the  preservation 
of  a  monument  to  commemorate  the  battle  fought  here  on  August  9, 
1877,  between  a  small  force  of  United  States  troops  and  a  much 
larger  number  of  Nez  Perce  Indians,  which  resulted  in  a  complete 
rout  of  the  Indians. 

The  nearest  settlement  to  the  monument  is  the  town  of  Gibbons, 
Beaverhead  County,  which  is  reached  by  stage  via  Wisdom  from 
Divide,  a  distance  of  about  45  miles.  Divide  is  a  station  on  the 
Oregon  Short  Line,  some  25  miles  south  of  Butte,  Mont. 

The  battle  in  Big  Hole  Basin  was  one  of  the  principal  engagements 
in  the  Nez  Perce  campaign,  which  began  in  the  summer  of  1877  and 
lasted  nearly  four  months.  Some  of  the  Nez  Perces,  led  by  Chief 
Joseph  and  other  chiefs,  refused  to  be  bound  by  the  terms  of  a  treaty 
made  with  the  Government  a  few  years  before,  and  to  Gen.  O.  O-. 
Howard  was  assigned  the  duty  of  placing  the  Indians  on  their  reser 
vation.  Negotiations,  which  at  first  promised  to  be  successful,  were 
brought  to  a  sudden  end  on  June  13  by  the  massacre  of  about  20 
whites  in  revenge  for  an  Indian  killed  the  year  before.  The  Nez 
Perces  started  to  leave  their  home  in  Idaho  for  their  hunting  grounds 
in  Judith  Basin  in  eastern  Montana,  but  their  route  lay  too  near 
Fort  Missoula  and  the  towns  in  the  southwestern  part  01  the  Terri 
tory.  Early  in  August  a  party  under  Chief  Joseph  had  turned  south 
to  cross  the  Lo  Lo  Pass  back  into  Idaho  when  they  were  overtaken 
by  Col.  John  Gibbon  in  command  of  a  small  force  consisting  of  17 
officers,  132  men,  and  34  civilians.  Col.  Gibbon  attacked  the  Indians 
at  daylight  in  Big  Hole  Basin  by  surprise  and  their  camp  fell  into  his 
hands  in  less  than  half  an  hour.  During  the  fight,  which  continued 
all  day  and  long  after  dark,  the  Indians  captured  a  howitzer  and  a 
pack  mule  loaded  with  ammunition.  Later  in  the  night  the  Nez 
Perces  escaped,  leaving  89  dead,  while  Col.  Gibbon,  who  was  slightly 
wounded,  lost  29  men  killed  and  40  wounded. 

Turning  south  and  east  the  Indians,  now  pursued  by  Gen.  Howard, 
passed  through  Idaho  and  into  the  Yellowstone  National  Park. 


70 

They  proceeded  eastward  across  the  park,  emerging  at  Miller  Creek 
and  turning  north  crossed  the  Yellowstone,  and  later  the  Missouri 
at  Cow  Island.  Being  finally  intercepted  by  Col.  Miles  in  an  engage 
ment  which  occurred  on  October  5,  1877,  near  the  north  base  of  the 
Bear  Paw  Mountains  and  within  30  miles  of  the  international  bound 
ary,  most  of  the  survivors  surrendered.  In  the  campaign  between 
June  and  October,  extending  over  a  route  of  1,500  miles  or  more  in 
length,  15  engagements  were  fought,  in  which  127  whites  were  killed 
and  140  wounded.  The  total  losses  of  the  Indians  are  unknown, 
but  151  were  killed,  88  wounded,  and  489  were  captured.  The 
Indians  lost  more  than  one-half  of  their  dead  in  the  battle  of  the 
Big  Hole  and  the  whites  nearly  one-third  of  their  dead  and  nearly 
one-fourth  of  their  wounded  in  the  same  engagement. 

CABBILLO  NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 

The  Cabrillo  National  Monument  on  Point  Loma,  just  north  of  the 
entrance  of  San  Diego  Bay,  was  created  October  13,  1913,  to  com 
memorate  the  discovery  of  California  by  Juan  Rodriguez  Cabrillo, 
who  first  sighted  land  at  this  point  when  he  entered  the  bay  on  Sep 
tember  28,  1542.  This  tract  of  land,  containing  less  than  an  acre 
(21,910  square  feet),  is  located  on  the  military  reservation  of  Fort 
Rosecrans.  Its  dedication  as  a  fitting  site  for  a  statue  of  Cabrillo1 
was  recommended  by  the  Order  of  Panama,  an  organization  com 
posed  of  representative  citizens  of  southern  California. 

Point  Loma  is  readily  reached  from  San  Diego  by  boat  and  also  by 
motor  or  other  vehicles. 

1  Little  is  known  of  the  history  of  Cabrillo,  a  Portuguese  navigator  in  the  service  of  Spain,  who  was  prob 
ably  born  about  the  end  of  the  fifteenth  century,  and  who  commanded  the  first  expedition  which  explored 
the  Pacific  coast  of  America  north  of  Mexico.  This  expedition,  comprising  two  ships  dispatched  by  the 
viceroy  Mendoza,  reached  California  almost  exactly  50  years  after  the  discovery  of  America  by  Columbus, 
and  3 'years  after  the  landing  of  Hernando  De  Soto  at  Tampa,  Fla.  Cabrillo  also  discovered  the  Santa 
Barbara  Islands  and  after  continuing  up  the  coast  about  as  far  as  latitude  38°  returned  to  San  Miguel  Island, 
where  he  died  on  January  3,  1543,  and  where  he  is  said  to  have  been  buried.  On  the  death  of  Cabrillo  the 
command  of  the  expedition  fell  to  the  chief  pilot.  Bartholomeo  Ferrelo.  who  again  proceeded  up  the  coast, 
discovering  several  prominent  points  and  headlands.  He  reached  his  farthest  north  near  the  southern 
boundary  of  Oregon  on  March  10, 1.543,  when  on  account  of  lack  of  provisions  and  the  condition  of  his  vessels 
he  was  compelled  to  return. 


APPENDIX  I.  SOME  IMPORTANT  DATES  IN  THE  HISTORY  OF 
NATIONAL  MONUMENTS. 

1526.  Earliest  inscription  on  Inscription  Rock  (El  Morro). 

1540.  Discovery  of  the  Grand  Canyon  of  Arizona  by  Don  Garcia 
Lopez  de  Cardenas. 

1542.  Discovery  of  California  by  Juan  Rodriguez  Cabrillo. 

1604.  Discovery  of  Mount  Desert  Island  by  Samuel  de  Champlain 
(Sieur  de  Monts  Monument). 

1661.  Spanish  inscriptions  on  the  Inscription  House  Ruin  (Navajo 
National  Monument). 

1774.  Discovery  of  Mount  Olympus  by  Juan  Perez,  who  named  it 
El  Cerro  de  Santa  Rosalia. 

1788.  Mount  Olympus  named  by  Capt.  John  Meares,  who  first 
saw  it  July  4. 

1802.  Battle  of  Alaska  between  the  natives  and  the  Russians  under 
Baranoff  (Sitka  National  Monument) . 

1854.  First  ascent  of  Mount  Olympus. 

1869.  Exploration  of  the  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Colorado  by  Maj. 
J.  W.  Powell. 

1874.  Discovery  of  Oregon  Caves  or  Marble  Halls  by  Elija 
Davidson. 

1877.  Battle  of  Big  Hole,  Montana. 

1895.  Discovery  01  Natural  Bridges  of  Utah  by  Emery  Knowles. 

1900.  Discovery  of  Jewel  Cave,  S.  Dak.,  by  Albert  and  F.  W. 
Michaud. 

1906.  Passage  of  Monuments  Act  and  establishment  of  first 
monuments. 

1908.  Discovery  of  Ruins  of  Betata  Kin  by  J.  W.  Wetherell  and 
Prof.  Byron  S.  Cummings  (Navajo  National  Monument). 

1909.  Discovery  of  Rainbow  Natural  Bridge,  Utah,   by  William 
B.  Douglass.. 

(71) 


APPENDIX  II.  AN  ACT  FOR  THE  PRESERVATION  OF  AMERICAN 

ANTIQUITIES. 

(34  Stat.,  225.) 

Be  it  enacted  by  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  of  the 
United  States  of  America  in  Congress  assembled,  That  any  person 
who  shall  appropriate,  excavate,  injure,  or  destroy  any  historic  or 
prehistoric  ruin  or  monument,  or  any  object  of  antiquity,  situated  on 
lands  owned  or  controlled  by  the  Government  of  the  tfnited  States, 
without  the  permission  of  the  Secretary  of  the  department  of  the 
Government  having  jurisdiction  over  the  lands  on  which  said  antiqui 
ties  are  situated,  shall,  upon  conviction,  be  fined  in  a  sum  of  not  more 
than  $500  or  be  imprisoned  for  a  period  of  not  more  than  ninety 
days,  or  shall  suffer  both  fine  and  imprisonment,  in  the  discretion 
of  the  court. 

SEC.  2.  That  the  President  of  the  United  States  is  hereby  author 
ized,  in  his  discretion,  to  declare  by  public  proclamation  historic  land 
marks,  historic  and  prehistoric  structures,  and  other  objects  of  historic 
or  scientific  interest  that  are  situated  upon  the  lands  owned  or  con 
trolled  by  the  Government  of  the  United  States  to  be  national  monu 
ments,  and  may  reserve  as  a  part  thereof  parcels  of  land,  the  limits  of 
which  hi  all  cases  shall  be  confined  to  the  smallest  area  compatible 
with  the  proper  care  and  management  of  the  objects  to  be  protected: 
Provided,  That  when  such  objects  are  situated  upon  a  tract  covered 
by  a  bona  fide  unperfected  claim  or  held  in  private  ownership,  the 
tracts,  or  so  much  thereof  as  may  be  necessary  for  the  proper  care  and 
management  of  the  object,  may  be  relinquished  to  the  Government, 
and  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior  is  hereby  authorized  to  accept  the 
relinquishment  of  such  tracts  in  behalf  of  the  Government  of  the 
United  States. 

SEC.  3.  That  permits  for  the  examination  of  rums,  the  excavation 
of  archaeological  sites,  and  the  gathering  of  objects  of  antiquity  upon 
the  lands  under  their  respective  jurisdictions  may  be  granted  by  the 
Secretaries  of  the  Interior,  Agriculture,  and  War  to  institutions 
which  they  may  deem  properly  qualified  to  conduct  such  examination, 
excavation,  or  gathering,  subject  to  such  rules  and  regulations  as  they 
may  prescribe:  Provided,  That  the  examinations,  excavations,  and 
gatherings  are  undertaken  for  the  benefit  of  reputable  museums, 
universities,  colleges,  or  other  recognized  scientific  or  educational 
institutions,  with  a  view  to  increasing  the  knowledge  of  such  objects, 
and  that  the  gatherings  shall  be  matle  for  permanent  preservation  in 
public  museums. 

SEC.  4.  That  the  Secretaries  of  the  departments  aforesaid  shall 
make  and  publish  from  time  to  time  uniform  rules  and  regulations 
for  the  purpose  of  carrying  out  the  provisions  of  this  act. 

Approved,  June  8,  1906. 

(72) 


APPENDIX  III.  AN  ACT   TO   ESTABLISH  A  NATIONAL  PARK 
SERVICE,  AND  FOR  OTHER  PURPOSES. 

(39  Stat.,  535.) 

Be  it  enacted  &?/  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  of  the  United 
States  of  America  in  Congress  assembled,  That  there  is  hereby  created 
in  the  Department  of  the  Interior  a  service  to  be  called  the  National 
Park  Service,  which  shall  be  under  the  charge  of  a  director,  who  shall 
be  appointed  by  the  Secretary  and  who  shall  receive  a  salary  of  $4,500 
per  annum.  There  shall  also  be  appointed  by  the  Secretary  the  fol 
lowing  assistants  and  other  employees  at  the  salaries  designated :  One 
assistant  director,  at  $2,500  per  annum;  one  chief  clerk,  at  $2,000  per 
annum;  one  draftsman,  at  $1,800  per  annum;  one  messenger,  at  $600 
per  annum;  and,  in  addition  thereto,  such  other  employees  as  the 
Secretary  of  the  Interior  shall  deem  necessary:  Provided,  That  not 
more  than  $8,100  annually  shall  be  expended  for  salaries  of  experts, 
assistants,  and  employees Vi thin  the  District  of  Columbia  not  herein 
specifically  enumerated  unless  previously  authorized  by  law.  The 
service  thus  established  shall  promote  and  regulate  the  use  of  the 
Federal  areas  known  as  national  parks,  monuments,  and  reservations 
hereinafter  specified  by  such  means  and  measures  as  conform  to  the 
fundamental  purpose  of  the  said  parks,  monuments,  and  reservations, 
which  purpose  is  to  conserve  the  scenery  and  the  natural  and  historic 
objects  and  the  wild  life  therein  and  to  provide  for  the  enjoyment  of 
the  same  in  such  manner  and  by  such  means  as  will  leave  them  unim 
paired  for  the  enjoyment  of  future  generations. 

SEC.  2.  That  the  director  shall,  under  the  direction  of  the  Secretary 
of  the  Interior,  have  the  supervision,  management,  and  control  of  the 
several  national  parks  and  national  monuments  which  are  now  under 
the  jurisdiction  of  the  Department  of  the  Interior,  and  of  the  Hot 
Springs  Reservation  in  the  State  of  Arkansas,  and  of  such  other 
national  parks  and  reservations  of  like  character  as  may  be  hereafter 
created  by  Congress:  Provided,  That  in  the  supervision,  management, 
and  control  of  national  monuments  contiguous  to  national  forests  the 
Secretary  of  Agriculture  may  cooperate  with  said  National  Park 
Service  to  such  extent  as  may  be  requested  by  the  Secretary  of  the 
Interior. 

SEC.  3.  That  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior  shall  make  and  publish 
such  rules  and  regulations  as  he  may  deem  necessary  or  proper  for 
the  use  and  management  of  the  parks,  monuments,  and  reservations 
under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  National  Park  Service,  and  any  viola 
tions  of  any  of  the  rules  and  regulations  authorized  by  this  act  shall 
be  punished  as  provided  for  in  section  fifty  of  the  act  entitled  "An 
act  to  codify  and  amend  the  penal  laws  of  the  United  States,"  ap 
proved  March  fourth,  nineteen  hundred  and  nine,  as  amended  by 
section  six  of  the  act  of  June  twenty-fifth,  nineteen  hundred  and  ten 
(Thirty-sixth  United  States  Statutes  at  Large,  page  eight  hundred  and 

.  (73) 


74 

fifty-seven).  He  may  also,  upon  terms  and  conditions  to  be  fixed 
by  mm,  sell  or  dispose  of  timber  in  those  cases  where  in  his  judgment 
the  cutting  of  such  timber  is  required  in  order  to  control  the  attacks 
of  insects  or  diseases  or  otherwise  conserve  the  scenery  or  the  natural 
or  historic  objects  in  any  such  park,  monument,  or  reservation.  He 
may  also  provide  in  his  discretion  for  the  destruction  of  such  animals 
and.  of  such  plant  life  as  may  be  detrimental  to  the  use  of  anv  of  said 
parks,  monuments,  or  reservations.  He  may  also  grant  privileges, 
leases,  and  permits  for  the  use  of  land  for  the  accommodation  of 
visitors  in  the  various  parks,  monuments,  or  other  reservations  herein 
provided  for,  but  for  periods  not  exceeding  twenty  years;  and  no 
natural  curiosities,  wonders,  or  objects  of  interest  shall  be  leased, 
rented,  or  granted  to  anyone  on  such  terms  as  to  interfere  with  free 
access  to  them  by  the  public:  Provided,  however,  That  the  Secretary 
of  the  Interior  may,  under  such  rules  and  regulations  and  on  such 
terms  as  he  may  prescribe,  grant  the  privilege  to  graze  live  stock 
within  any  national  park,  monument,  or  reservation  herein  referred 
to  when  in  his  judgment  such  use  is  not  detrimental  to  the  primarv 
purpose  for  which  such  park,  monument,  or  reservation  was  created, 
except  that  this  provision  shall  not  apply  to  the  Yellowstone  National 
Park. 

SEC.  4.  That  nothing  in  this  act  contained  shall  affect  or  modify 
the  provisions  of  the  act  approved  February  fifteenth,  nineteen 
hundred  and  one,  entitled  "An  act  relating  to  rights  of  way  through 
certain  parks,  reservations,  and  other  public  lands." 

Approved,  August  25,  1916. 


APPENDIX  IV.  LITERATURE. 

The  following  list  of  publications  relating  to  the  monuments  is  by 
no  means  exhaustive ,  but  includes  the  more  important  publications 
on  the  principal  reservations.  The  articles  are  mainly  descriptive, 
but  a  few  are  technical,  the  object  of  the  list  being  to  include  origi 
nal  sources  of  information  as  well  as  popular  accounts.  No  attempt 
has  been  made  to  include  all  the  titles  in  the  voluminous  literature 
on  the  Grand  Canyon  or  the  Cliff  Dwellings. 

GENERAL. 

BOND,  FRANK,  The  Administration  of  National  Monuments:  Proc.  Nat.  Park  Confer 
ence,  1911,  Dept.  Int.,  pp.  80-101.  1912.  [For  sale  by  the  Superintendent  of 
Documents,  Government  Printing  Office,  Washington,  D.  C.,  for  15  cents.] 

Statement  of  location,  characteristics,  administration,  and  needs  of  the  28  monuments  then  estab 
lished. 

CONWENTZ,  H.,  Beitrage  zur  Naturdenkmalpflege,  Band  I-V.     Berlin,  1906-1916. 
Reports  of  the  Prussian  Bureau  for  the  Conservation  of  Natural  Monuments. 

CONWENTZ,  H.,  The  Care  of  Natural  Monuments  with  Special  Reference  to  Great 
Britain  and  Germany,  12°,  185  pages,  10  figs.  1909. 

Brief  account  and  summary  of  efforts  in  several  countries  to  protect  natural  monuments. 

CURTIS,  WM.  ELEROY,  Our  National  Parks  and  Reservations:  Annals  Acad.  Pol.  & 
Social  Science,  vol.  35,  pp.  231-240,  1910;  reprinted  in  Public  Recreation  Facili 
ties.  Phila.  1910. 

Contains  brief  descriptions  of  15  national  monuments  (pp.  237-240). 

SCHMECKEBIER,  L.  F.,  Our  National  Parks:  Nat.  Geog.  Mag.,  vol.  23,  pp.  531-577, 
ill.  June,  1912. 

Contains  a  list  of  the  28  monuments  then  established,  a  map  showing  their  location,  4  figs,  of  the 
Devil  Post  Pile  and  3  of  the  Petrified  Forest  (pp.  575-577). 

YARD,  R.  S. ,  National  Parks  Portfolio,  Dept.  Interior,  Nat.  Parks  Service.  1917.  [For 
sale  by  the  Superintendent  of  Documents,  Government  Printing  Office,  Washing 
ton,  D.  C.;  price,  35  cents  for  11  pamphlets  loose  in  cloth  cover;  55  cents  bound  in 

cloth.     Ready  about  July  1,  1917.] 

A  collection  of  photographs  illustrating  the  parks  and  monuments. 

NATIONAL  MONUMENTS. 

BANDELIER. 

HEWETT,  EDGAR  L.,  Antiquities  of  the  Jemez  Plateau,  New  Mexico:  Bureau  Am. 
Ethnology,  Bull.  32,  55  pages,  16  pis.,  map.     1906.     [For  sale  by  Superintendent 
of  Documents,  Government  Printing  Office,  Washington,  D.  C.,  for  25  cents.] 
Full  account  of  the  antiquities  now  included  in  the  Bandelier  National  Monument. 

BIG   HOLE    BATTLE    FIELD. 

BANCROFT,  H.  H.,  Hist.,  Works  of  Hubert  Howe  Bancroft,  vol.  31,  Washington, 
Idaho,  and  Montana,  510  pages.  1890. 

CHITTENDEN,  H.  M.,  The  Yellowstone  National  Park,  8  ed.,  1915. 

Chapter  XV,  "  Hostile  Indians  in  the  Park,  '  contains  a  brief  summary  of  the  Nez  Perce  troubles  of 
1877  (pp.  122-130). 

GIBBON,  JOHN,  Col.  7th  Infantry,  U.  S.  A.  [Report  of  Battle  of  Big  Hole,  Montana, 
Aug.  9,  1877]:  Rept.  Secretary  War,  1877,  vol.  1,  pp.  68-72.  [Out  of  print.] 

(75) 


76 

CABRILLO. 

ANON.  Voyage  of  Cabrillo  along  the  California  coast  in  1542:  Calif.  111.  Mag.,  vol  1, 
pp.  100,  215.  1891. 

ANOX.  The  Cabrillo  Celebration  at  San  Diego:  Land  of  Sunshine,  vol  1.  pp  70-77, 
99,  4  figs.  Sept.,  1894. 

Contains  an  account  of  the  celebration,  on  Sept.  27-29,  1894,  of  the  three  hundred  and  fifty-second 
anniversary  of  the  discovery  of  California,  with  two  illustrations  of  the  celebration  of  1892. 

CAPULIN    MOUNTAIN. 

LEE,  WILLIS  T.,  Extinct  Volcanoes  of  Northeast  New  Mexico:  Am.  Forestry,  vol.  18, 
pp.  357-365,  7  figs.  June,  1912. 

Brief  description  of  Capulin  Mountain,  with  3  figs.,  pp.  360-362. 

COLORADO. 

KOCKWELL,  ROBERT  B.,  An  Annotated  List  of  the  Birds  of  Mesa  County,  Colorado: 
Condor,  vol.  10,  pp.  152-180,  11  figs.,  including  2  maps.  July,  1908. 

Contains  notes  on  159  species  of  birds  found  in  the  county,  including  those  which  occur  in  the 
monument. 

DEVIL   POSTPILE. 

Anon.,  Devil  Postpile  National  Monument,  California:  Sierra  Club  Bull.,  vol.  8,  pp. 
226-227,  2  pis.,  map,  Jan.  1912. 

Full  text  of  the  Proclamation  and  2  photographs  by  \V.  L.  Huber. 

HOLDER,  CHARLES  FREDERICK.  Famous  Basaltic  Columns:  Scientific  Am.,  vol.  84, 
p.  68,  2  figs.,  Feb.  2,  1901. 

HUBER,  W.  L.  [Four  photographs  by  W.  L.  Huber  of  the  Devil  Post  Pile,  in  L.  F. 
Schmeckebier's  "Our  National  Parks"]:  Nat.  Geog.  Mag.,  vol.  23,  pp.  568-571, 
June  1912. 

LE  CONTE,  JOSEPH  N.,  The  Devil  Postpile:  Sierra  Club  Bull.,  vol.  8,  pp.  170-173, 
2  pis.,  Jan.  1912. 

DEVILS   TOWER. 

MORAN,  THOMAS,  A  Journey  to  the  Devils  Tower  in  Wyoming:  Century,  n.  B.,  vol. 
25,  pp.  450-454,  Jan.  1894. 

EL    MORRO. 

LUMMIS,  CHARLES  F.,  Some  Strange  Corners  of  our  Country,  1892. 

Chapter  XIII  on  The  Stone  Autograph-Album  contains  reproductions  of  a  number  of  the  more 
important  names  on  Inscription  Rock,  which  is  described  as  "the  most  precious  clilf,  historically, 
possessed  by  any  nation  on  earth,  and,  I  am  ashamed  to  say,  the  most  utterly  uncared-for''  (pp.  163- 
182). 

GRAND   CANYON. 

DANIELS,  MARK,  The  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Colorado:  Am.  Forestry,  vol.  22,  pp.  202- 
208,  10  figs.,  Apr.  1916. 

Contains  an  illustration  of  the  monument  erected  to  Maj.  John  Wesley  Powell,  who  made  the  first 
trip  down  the  river  through  the  canyon  (p.  205). 

DARTON,  N.  H.,  A  Reconnaissance  of  parts  of  northwestern  New  Mexico  and  north 
ern  Arizona:  U.  S.  Geol.  Survey,  Bull.  435,  88  pages,  17  plates,  1910. 

DAVIS,  W.  M.,  Excursion  to  the  Grand  Canyon:  Bull.  Mus.  Comp.  Zool.  Harvard 
Coll.,  Geol.  ser.,  vol.  5,  No.  4,  pp.  107-201,  1901. 

DELLENBAUGH,  FREDERICK  S.,  The  Romance  of  the  Colorado  River,  399  pages,  many 
illustrations,  1902. 

An  account  of  the  explorations  of  the  river,  with  special  reference  to  the  voyages  of  Powell;  Mr. 
Dellenbaugh  was  a  member  of  the  second  Powell  expedition. 

DUTTON,  CAPT.  CLARENCE  E.,  Tertiary  History  of  the  Grand  Canon  District,  U.  S. 
Geol.  Surv.,  Mon.  2,  264  pages,  ill.  and  atlas,  1882.  [For  sale  by  the  Superintendent 
of  Documents,  Government  Printing  Office,  Washington,  D.  C.,  for  $10.] 

GREY,  ZANE,  Roping  Lions  in  the  Grand  Canyon:  Field  and  Stream,  vol.  13,  pp. 
739-749,  Jan.  1909;  vol.  14,  pp.  336-342,  Aug.  1909. 


77 

HOLMES,  BURTON,  Travelogues,  vol.  6,  The  Yellowstone  National  Park;  The  Grand 
Canyon  of  the  Arizona;  Moki  Land,  336  pages,  ill.,  1908. 

JAMES,  GEORGE  WHARTON,  In  and  Around  the  Grand  Canyon,  346  pages,  23  plates, 
707  figs. 

JAMES,  GEORGE  WHARTON,  The  Grand  Canyon  of  Arizona — How  to  See  It:  265  pages, 
map,  98  figs.,  1910. 
A  popular  guide  book. 

KOLB,  ELLSWORTH,  and  EMERY,  Experiences  in  the  Grand  Canyon:  Nat.  Geog.  Mag., 
vol.  26,  pp.  99-184,  many  Ills.,  Aug.  1914. 


Contains  accounts  of  (1)  a  journey  to  Cataract  Creek,  (2)  to  the  Canyon  of  the  Little  Colorado,  and 
3)  "Shooting  the  Rapids  of  the  Colorado"— a  descent  of  the  river  from  Green  River  City,  Wyo.,  to 
its  mouth.  Leaving  Green  River  City  on  Sept.  8,  1911,  Bright  Angel  Creek  was  reached  Nov.  16— 


a  distance  of  850  miles  in  70  days.    On  Dec.  19  a  start  was  again  made  and  the  party  reached  Needles, 
Calif.,  Jan.  18,  after  passing  through  365  rapids  during  the  101  days  spent  on  the  river. 

MERRIAM,  C.  HART,  Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado,  between  the  Kaibab  and  Cocanini 
Plateaus:  N.  Am.  Fauna,  No.  3,  U.  S.  Dept.  Agr.,  pp.  35-41,  1889. 

Contains  lists  of  21  species  of  mammals  and  57  species  of  birds  observed  during  a  6-day  trip  to  the 
canyon,  Sept.  10-15,  1889. 

Mum,  JOHN,  Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado:  Century,  vol.  65,  pp.  107-116,  Nov.  1902. 

NOBLE,  L.  F.,  The  Shinurno  quadrangle,  Grand  Canyon  district,  Arizona:  U.  S. 
Geol.  Surv.,  Bull.  549,  100  pp.,  18  pis.,  1914. 

POWELL,  J.  W.,  Scribner's,  vol.  9,  pp.  293,  523;  vol.  10,  p.  659. 

POWELL,  J.  W.,  Exploration  of  the  Colorado  River  of  the  West,  1869-1872:  Smith 
sonian  Inst.,  4°,  pp.  291,  II.,  1875.  [Out  of  Print.] 

Part  I,  "  History  of  the  Exploration  of  the  Canons  of  the  Colorado, "  contains  a  detailed  itinerary  of 
the  first  trip  through  the  canon  (pp.  1-132). 

STEELE,  DAVID  M..  Going  Abroad  Overland:  8  vo.,  pp.  197,  16  plates,  2  maps,  N.Y., 
1917.  Putnams. 

TORREY,  BRADFORD,  A  Bird-Gazer  at  the  Canon:  In  Field  Days  in  California,  pp. 
204-231,  1913. 

Popular  account  of  birds  observed  in  December. 

WALCOTT,  C.  D.,  Pre-Cambrian  igneous  rocks  of  the  Unkar  terrane,  Grand  Canyon  of 
the  Colorado,  Arizona:  U.  S.  Geol.  Surv.,  14th  Ann.  Kept.,  pt.  2,  pp.  497-524,  pis. 
60-65,  1894.  [For  sale  by  the  Superintendent  of  Documents,  Government  Printing 
Office,  Washington,  D.  C.,  for  $2. 10. 

WIN  SHIP,  GEORGE  PARKER,  Finding  the  Colorado  River:  Land  of  Sunshine,  vol.  12, 
pp.  269-280,  5  figs.,  April  1900. 

Popular  account  of  the  discovery  of  the  Canyon  by  Don  Garcia  Lopez  de  Cardenas  in  1540. 

YARD,  II.  S.,  National  Parks  Portfolio,  Grand  Canyon  Pamphlet.  Dept.  Int.  National 
Parks  Service,  1916.  2d  ed.  1917.  [For  sale  by  Superintendent  of  Documents, 
Government  Printing  Office,  Washington,  D.  C.;  price,  35  cents  for  11  pamphlets 
loose  in  cloth  cover;  55  cents  for  book  bound  in  cloth.  Ready  about  July  1, 1917.] 

LEWIS   AND   CLARK   CAVERN'. 

CHESTNUT,  V.  K.,  The  Lewis  &  Clark  Cavern  National  Monument  in  Montana,  Sci 
ence,  n.  s.,  vol.  29,  p.  599,  Apr.  9,  1909. 

Brief  abstract  of  a  paper  presented  before  the  Biological  Society  of  Washington. 

MONTEZUMA   CASTLE. 

LUMMIS,  CHARLES  F.,  Some  Strange  Corners  of  Our  Country,  1892. 
Chapter  XI,  Montezuma's  Castle,  pp.  136-141,  2  plates. 

MEARNS,  EDGAR  A.,  Ancient  Dwellings  of  the  Rio  Verde  Valley:  Pop.  ScL  Mo., 
XXXVII,  pp.  745-763,  12  figs,  and  map,  Oct.,  1890. 

Contains  a  description  with  photograph  and  several  plans  of  Montezuma's  Castle  (pp.  750-757), 
and  a  general  account  of  other  ruins  in  the  vicinity  of  Camp  Verde. 

MINDELEFF,  COSMOS,  Aboriginal  Remains  in  Verde  Valley,  Arizona:  13th  Ann.  Rept. 
Bureau  Ethnology  for  1891-92,  pp.  179-261,  pis.  X-L,  text  figs.  [For  sale  by  Su 
perintendent  of  Documents,  Government  Printing  Office,  Washington,  D.  C.,  for 
$1.10.] 


78 

MOUNT   OLYMPUS. 

Anon.,  New  Olympic  National  Park:  Colliers,  vol.  43,  p.  12,  April  1909. 

BURNS,  FINDLEY:  The  Olympic  National  Forest:  Its  Resources  and  their  Management: 
U.  S.  Dept.  Agriculture,  Forest  Service,  Bull.  89,  pp.  20,  2  pis.,  and  map.  [For  sale 
by  Superintendent  of  Documents,  Government  Printing  Office,  "Washington,  B.C., 
for  10  cents.] 

Contains  a  description  of  the  forests  •within  and  adjoining  the  National  Monument. 

DODWELL,  ARTHUR,  and  RIXON,  T.  F.,  Olympic  Forest  Reserve,  Washington:  U.  S. 
Geol.  Survey,  21st  Ann.  Rept.,  pt.  5,  pp.  151-208,  pis.  LII-LXX,  1899-1900.  [For 
sale  by  the  Superintendent  of  Documents,  Government  Printing  Office.  Washing 
ton,  D.  C.,  for  $3.85.] 

Detailed  account  of  the  forests  based  on  examinations  made  in  1888  and  1889. 

FIGGINS,  J.  D.,  The  New  Olympic  National  Park:  Recreation,  vol.  30,  pp.  172-175 
193,  Oct.  1909. 

HENDERSON,  L.  F.,  The  Flora  of  the  Olympics:  Zoe,  Vol.  II,  pp.  253-295,  October 
1891. 

General  account  with  a  list  of  nearly  500  species. 

MERRIAM,  C.  HART,  Cervus  roosevelti,  a  new  elk  from  the  Olympics:  Proc.  Biol.  Soc. 
Washington,  vol.  11,  pp.  271-275,  Dec.  17,  1897. 

Original  description  of  the  Olympic  elk,  based  on  a  specimen  from  Mount  Elaine,  on  the  ridge  between 
the  heads  of  the  Hoh,  Elwah,  and  Soled uc  rivers,  near  Mount  Olympus. 

MORGENROTH,  CHRIS.,  Game  in  Western  Forest  Reserves  [Mount  Olympus  National 
Forest,  Wash.]:  Sportsmen's  Review,  vol.  38,  p.  619,  Dec.  24,  1910. 
Contains  a  table  showing  approximate  number  of  elk  on  the  various  watersheds. 

PARSONS,  MARION  RANDALL,  Through  the  Olympics  with  the  Mountaineers:  Sierra 
Club  Bull.,  vol.  9,  pp.  149-158,  pis.  LIX-LXIV  and  map,  January  1914. 

Account  of  an  outing  in  August  1913,  by  the  Seattle  Mountaineers  and  members  of  Appalachian, 
Mazama,  and  Sierra  Clubs  from  Port  Angeles  to  Lake  Queniult  and  Moclips,  including  an  ascent  of 
Mount  Olympus. 

SMITH,  A.  A.,  and  others,  The  Olympics:  Steel  Points,  Vol.  I,  no.  4,  pp.  141-200, 
ill.  July,  1907  (a  12  mo.  quarterly  published  by  W.  G.  Steel,  Portland,  Oreg.). 


MUIR   WOODS. 

Anon.,  A  Noble  Gift:  Arboriculture,  March  1908,  pp.  37-38. 

Anon.,  Muir  Woods  on  Mount  Tamalpais,  Marin  Co.,  California:  Pioneer  Western 
Lumberman,  Oct.  15,  1913,  p.  19. 

Anon.,  Redwood  Canyon,  deeded  to  United  States:  Forestry  and  Irrigation,  vol.  14, 

pp.  97-98,  2  figs.,  February  1908. 
Anon.,  Valuable  Additions  to  National  Forest  Reserves  in  California:  Great  West, 

vol.  7,  pp.  10-11,  Feb.  1,  1908. 

PARSONS,  E.  T.  William  Kent's  Gift:  Sierra  Club  Bull.,  vol.  6,  pp.  285-288,  4  pis., 
June  1908. 

Contains  an  appreciation  of  the  redwoods  by  the  donor,  and  his  correspondence  with  the  President 
and  Secretary  of  the  Interior  explaining  the  selection  of  the  name  Muir  Woods  instead  of  the  designation 
Kent  Monument,  suggested  by  the  President. 

ROBINSON,  C  M  ,  Muir  Woods,  a  National  Park:  Charities  and  Commons,  vol.  20, 
pp.  180-183,  May  2,  1908. 

MUKUNTUWEAP. 

DUTTON,  Capt.  CLARENCE  E.,  Tertiary  History  of  the  Grand  Canon  District:  U.  S. 
Geol.  Survey,  Mon.  II,  264  pages,  42  plates,  and  atlas,  1882.  [For  sale  by  Superin 
tendent  of  Documents,  Government  Printing  Office,  Washington,  D.  C.  $10.] 

The  section  on  "The  Temples  and  Towers  of  the  Virgin"  contains  a  picturesque  description  of  the 
Mukuntuweap  or  Little  Zion  Valley  (pp.  57-60). 

WADDELL,  ALBERT  GILL,  A  Visit  to  Little  Zion  Canyon,  Utah's  Scenic  Wonder:  Am. 
Motorist,  vol.  8,  pp.  1-11,  5  figs.,  Aug.,  1916. 


79 


NATURAL   BRIDGES. 


CUMMINGS,  BYRON  S.,  The  Great  Natural  Bridges  of  Utah:   Nat.  Geog.  Mag.,  vol. 
21,  pp.  157-167,  7  ill.,  Feb.,  1910. 

Descriptions  of  the  Edwin,  Augusta,  Caroline,  and  Rainbow  or  Nonnezoshi,  and  Pritchett  Valley 


DYAR,  W.  W.,  The  Colossal  Bridges  of  Utah:  Century  Mag.,  vol.  68,  pp.  505-511,  Aug., 
1904:  abstract  in  Nat.  Geog.  Mag.,  vol.  15,  pp.  367-369,  2  figs.,  Sept.,  1904. 

HOLMES,  EDWIN  F.,  The  Great  Natural  Bridges  of  Utah:  Nat.  Geog.  Mag.,  vol.  18,  pp. 
1«9-204,  3  figs.,  Mar.,  1907. 

NAVAJO. 

FEWKES,  JESSE  WALTER,  Preliminary  Report  on  a  Visit  to  the  Navajo  National  Monu 
ment,  Arizona:  Bu.  Am.  Ethnology,  Smithsonian  Institution,  Bull.  50,  35  pages, 
22  plates,  1911. 

Includes  routes  to  the  monument,  accounts  of  the  major  and  minor  antiquities,  summary,  conclu 
sions,  and  recommendations. 

GILMAN,  M.  FRENCH,  Birds  of  the  Navajo  Reservation  in  New  Mexico:  Condor,  vol.  10, 
pp.  146-152,  July,  1908. 

Contains  brief  notes  on  108  species  of  birds  on  the  reservation  in  New  Mexico  and  Arizona,  including 
those  found  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  monument. 

OREGON    CAVES. 

WATSON,  C.  B.,  Prehistoric  Siskiyou  Island  and  Marble  Halls  of  Oregon,  147  pages, 
Jan.  4,  1909. 

Chap.  XV,  The  Marble  Halls  of  Oregon,  contains  an  account  of  a  four  days'  visit  to  the  caves  made  in 
Aug.,  1907,  by  Joaquin  Miller,  Jefferson  Myers,  and  C.  B.  Watson  (pp.  132-141). 

WINCHELL,  A.  N.,  Petrology  and  Mineral  Resources  of  Jackson  and  Josephine  Coun 
ties,  Oregon:  Oregon  Bureau  Mines  and  Geol.,  Min.  Resources  of  Oregon,  vol.  1,  No. 
5,  265  pages,  Aug.,  1914. 

In  the  account  of  the  Waldo  District,  Limestone  and  Slate,  will  be  found  a  brief  description  of  the 
caves  with  a  diagram  and  photograph  (pp.  243-244,  fig.  30,  PI.  XI). 

PAPAGO    SAGUARO. 

KUNZE,  RICHARD  E.,  The  Desert  Flora  of  Phoenix,  Arizona:  Bull.  Torrey  Bot.  Club, 
vol.  30,  pp.  302-307,  May,  1903. 

Contains  a  brief  account  of  8  species  of  cactus  and  of  other  species  characteristic  of  the  flora  of  the 
Salt  River  Valley  between  Phoenix  and  Tempe  in  winter. 

PETRIFIED    FOREST. 

FNOWLTON,  F.  H.,  The  Fossil  Forests  of  Arizona:  Am.  Forestry,  vol.  19,  pp.  207-218, 
'8  pis.,  Apr.  1913. 

Kuxz,  GEORGE  F.,  [Silicified  Wood  from  Arizona]:  Journ.  N.  Y.  Microscop.  Soc., 
Vol.  I,  p.  198,  1885. 

KUNZ,  GEORGE  F.,  Agatized  and  Jasperized  Wood  of  Arizona:  Pop.  Sci.  Mo.,  Vol.  27, 
pp.  362-367,  1886. 

KUNZ,  GEORGE  F.,  Jasperized  and  Agatized  Woods  from  Arizona:  Trans.  N.  Y.  Acad 
Sci.,  Vol.  6,  pp.  165-166,  1887. 

MERRILL,  GEORGE  P.,  The  Petrified  Forest,  23  pp.,  7  pis.,  Adamana,  Ariz. 

MERRILL,  GEORGE  P.,  The  "Fossil  Forest"  of  Arizona:  Am.  Museum  Journ..  vol.  13, 
pp.  311-316,  8  figs.,  Nov.  1913;  reprinted  in  Scientific  Am.  Suppl.,  vol.  77,  pp. 
184-185,  7  figs.,  Mar.  21,1914. 

MILLER,  S.  A.,  The  Petrified  Forest  of  Arizona;  Around  World,  vol.  1,  pp.  183-184, 
Sept.  1894. 

LACEY,  JOHN  F.,  The  Petrified  Forest  National  Park  of  Arizona:  Shields  Mag.,  vol.  1, 
pp.  156-159,  4  figs.,  July,  1905. 

Writing  a  year  before  the  passage  of  the  Monuments  Act  Mr.  Lacey  says:  "I  have  tried  for  six  years 
to  secure  the  enactment  of  a  law  creating  a  national  park  to  include  and  preserve  the  wonderful  Pertified 
Forest  of  Arizona.  The  bill  which  I  drafted  passed  the  House  of  Representatives  in  the  56th,  57th,  and 
58th  Congresses,  but  failed  to  be  acted  on  in  the  Senate."  (p.  157.) 


WARD,  LESTER  F.,  Report  on  the  Petrified  Forest  of  Arizona:  Dept.  Interior,  23  pp., 
1900;  reprinted  Ann.  Kept.  Smithsonian  Inst.  for  1899,  pp.  289-307,  3  plates,  1901. 
[For  sale  by  Superintendent  of  Documents,  Government  Printing  Office,  Washing 
ton,  D.  G.,  95  cents.] 

Contains  the  memorial  to  Congress  passed  by  the  legislature  of  Arizona  in  1895,  recommending  the 
establishment  of  the  Petrified  Forest  National'Park. 


PINN7ACLES. 


MAILLIARD,  J.  &  J.  W.,  Birds  Recorded  at  Paicines,  San  Benito  County,  Cal.:  Condor, 
vol.  3,  pp.  120-127,  Sept.  1901;  vol.  4,  p.  46,  Mar.  1902. 

Contains  brief  notes  on  171  species  observed  in  the  valley  a  few  miles  north  of  the  monument.  Al 
though  the  list  was  not  made  in  the  reservation,  it  affords 'some  idea  of  the  birds  which  may  be  found 
in  this  area. 

RAINBOW    BRIDGE. 

CUMMINGS,  BYRON  S.,  The  Great  Natural  Bridges  of  Utah:  Nat.  Geog.  Mag.,  vol.  21, 
pp.  157-167,  ill.,  Feb.  1910. 

Contains  a  description  and  2  illustrations  of  the  Rainbow  or  Nonnezoshi  (the  stone  arch),  the  greatest 
natural  bridge  known  (pp.  162, 163, 165). 

POGUE,  JOSEPH  E.,  The  Great  Rainbow  Natural  Bridge  of  Southern  Utah:  Nat. 
Geog.  Mag.,  vol.  22,  pp.  1048-1056,  6  figs.,  Nov.  1911. 

Description  of  the  bridge,  account  of  its  discovery  August  14,  1909,  and  its  dimensions  in  comparison 
with  those  of  other  bridges  in  Utah,  the  Natural  Bridge  in  Virginia,  and  the  Pont  d'Arc  in  France. 

SIEUR    DE    MONTS. 

Anon.,  First  National  Park  East  of  Mississippi  River:  Nat.  Geog.  Mag.,  vol.  29,  pp. 
622-626,  June,  1916. 

Five  illustrations  with  brief  descriptive  text. 

DORR,  GEORGE  B.,  The  Sieur  de  Monts  National  Monument:  Dept.  Int.  Cir.,  4  pp., 
6  figs.,  and  map,  1916. 

Brief  statement  regarding  the  new  reservation. 

DORR,  GEORGE  B.,  FORBUSH,  E.  tl.,  and  FERNALD.  M.  L.,  The  Unique  Island  of 
Mount  Desert:  Nat.  Geog.  Mag.,  vol.  26,  pp.  75-89,  8  figs.,  July,  1914. 
Brief  account  of  the  history,  birds,  and  flora  of  the  island  and  the  proposed  reservation. 

ELIOT,  CHARLES  W.,  The  Need  of  Conserving  the  Beauty  and  Freedom  of  Nature: 
Nat.  Geog.  Mag.,  vol.  26,  pp.  67-73,  3  figs.,  July,  1914, 
The  plan  for  a  national  monument  at  Mount  Desert,  p.  73. 

ELIOT,  CHARLES  W.,  and  others,   Sieur  de  Monts  National  Monument, — Addresses 
upon  its  opening  Aug.  22,  1916:  Sieur  de  Monts  Pubs.  II,  22  pp.,  1916. 

Exo,  HENRY  LANE,  The  Sieur  de  Monts  National  Monument  as  a  Bird  Sanctuary: 
Sieur  de  Monts  Pubs.  Ill,  17  pp.  [1917.] 

TONTO. 

HOUGH,  WALTER,  Antiquities  of  the  Upper  Gila  and  Salt  River  Valleys  in  Arizona 
and  New  Mexico:  Bureau.  Am.  Ethnology,  Bull.  35,  96  pp.,  10  pis.,  51  figs,  map. 
1907. 

Ruins  on  upper  Salt  River,  pp.  79-^2. 

TUMACACORI. 

BANCROFT,  H.  II.,  Works  of  Hubert  Howe  Bancroft,  vol.  17,  Hist.  Arizona  and  New 
Mexico,  p.  385,  1889. 

Brief  history  of  the  mission  down  to  1824. 

WHEELKR    NATIONAL   MONUMENT. 

Anon.,  The  Wheeler  National  Monument:  Nat.  Geog.  Mag.,  vol.  20,  pp.  837-840, 
4illus.,  Sept.  1909. 

Brief  description  and  4  views  of  the  rock  formations  in  the  monument. 


O 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 

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IE6.  CIR.    MAY     6  '76 

LD  21A-50m-4,'59 
(Al724slO)476B 


General  Library 

University  of  California 

Berkeley 


U.  C.  BERKELEY  LIBRARIES 


